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BREAKING THE SILENCE

Hellooooo everyone....
Its been a looong looong time that I had not updated my blog. Its more than a year and my blog had gone rusty. I'm truly sorry. I had been extremely busy from the day I’m back to Malaysia after I’m done with my world ride, and believe it or not, I am still busy to this day!!! Life has changed a lot since then, but no worries, I am still the same Anita :)



So what had I been doing after I’m back? Well, lets do a little throwback. I had attended lots n lots of media interviews (I lost count the number already); giving motivational talks at schools, colleges, universities and events; and I also made several appearances at bike events either organized by local organizers or the brand I’m representing, Givi. I was also invited to be a personality for quite a number of TV programs such as Jurnal Bes, Santai Rider, Positif, Kalori and Yang Pertama, to name a few. To watch them, you can type my name on youtube and the list will be displayed.

As I had mentioned before, Givi had always supported my ride since my very first overland journey in 2012. Givi was also the title sponsor for Global Dream Ride. Hence, with my success in completing the ride, Givi offered me to be their world brand ambassador, which I gladly accepted. The contract was signed on 29th Oct 2016 at MotoGP event, witnessed by Givi Vice President, Miss Hendrika Visenzi, Givi Overseas Operational Manager, Mr Joseph Perucca, Givi Msia Manager, Mr On Hai Swee, and LCR Honda team manager, Mr Lucio Cecchinello. It was a very memorable event for me. It never crossed my mind that I am going to represent an international brand. It felt like I'm in a dream, but its not. By now, I had been Givi ambassador for nearly two years. Thank you Givi.



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From left: Givi girl, Mr On, Miss Hendrika, myself, Mr Joseph, Mr Lucio, Givi girl

I would like to share some beautiful moments and recognitions which I got from organizations and important ppl in and outside Msia after I’m back from GDR. Among them were the invitation by the King and Queen of Johor, DYMM Sultan Ibrahim and DYMM Raja Zarith Sofiah. The meet up was held at the royalties official residence, Bukit Serene Palace. I was not aware that the very friendly Queen followed my GDR journey, until she posted on her FB congratulating me for my feat. During the meet up, I managed to have a private chat with the queen for more than an hour, before Prince Tunku Idris joined us, and later, the king himself.  I was truly blessed and honoured to get this opportunity which I reckoned as a once in a lifetime chance. Thank you Your Majesty.

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With the King and Queen of Johor Darul Takzim

My GDR was also recognized by Malaysia Book of Records. The title was ‘First Solo Motorbike Ride Around The World’. The event which was sponsored by generous Dato Seri Raja Firdaus, and wife Datin Seri Lisa, was held at the elegant dine house, Flora Terrace. VIP for the day was Dato Seri Mirza Tayyab, the DG of Tourism Msia. Lots of media people, reps from Givi and Hong Leong Yamaha Motor, close friends such as Zana, Sue, Yongsuzi, Lee Panjang, rep fr Lanun Bikerz & LBM and my loyal supporters attended the event. Not forgetting my mom, sister and HE Dato Anne, the ambassadress at Msian Embassy in Tashkent, who hosted me when I reached her town during my GDR. Thank you very much to all.

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The cert was presented by Miss Shikin, MBOR rep 
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From left: Datin Seri Lisa, Dato Seri Raja Firdaus, Dato Seri Mirza, myself, my mom, HE Dato Anne and my sister


Besides MBOR, my ride was also recognized by Asia Book of Records. The title given was ‘Longest Bike Solo Ride Across The World (Female)’. I was the very first Malaysian who get a title in ABR :) Givi HQ at Bukit Beruntung organized the certificate presentation and a PC with the media.










Other recognitions were given by Red Garage, ‘Ridiculous Mileage 65369km’ during KL Bike Fest 2016; and NVOG, ‘Tokoh Biker Madani’ during Islamic Bike Fest 2017. Thank you :)

In April 2017, I was invited to join 'Ride For Jalil' convoy, a ride to raise fund for Tunku Laksamana Johor Cancer Foundation. The organizer managed to collect more than 300 superbikes from all over the country to join this ride. Whats so memorable about this ride was I'm being selected to be one of the 30 riders in the royal entourage, riding together with Tunku Abdul Rahman and Tunku Abu Bakar :)



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With Tunku Abdul Rahman. He;s riding the late Tunku Jalil's bike
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With Tunku Abu Bakar


In May 2017, I was invited to give a talk at Horizons Unlimited Annual Meeting which was held at Sumbawa Island, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia. The event was organized by Indonesian top adventure rider, Jeffrey Polnaja who rode solo around the world for 9 years, collecting 400k + kms on his belt. Horizons Unlimited was one of my main platforms to ask for information during my ride. The VIP for the event was Ted Simons (Jupiters Travel), legend of the legends, the father of adventure riders. Again, I felt honoured to be at this international event as a speaker, together with other big names such as Mike & Shannon Mills, Norman & Maggie Magowan, Nicole Espinosa and others. I was honoured (and nervous) too bcos my Givi boss, Mr Joseph Perucca flew all the way to watch my presentation despite his busy schedule. Thank you boss & HUI2017.




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With my boss, Mr Joseph Perucca
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Me and the legendary Ted Simon
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From left, 'the man', Jeffrey Polnaja, Maggie, myself & Norman Magowan


Two very big surprises followed suit. I was chosen as one of the Negaraku icons by the Prime Minister Dept and Tokoh Alumni UPSI by the university itself. I was almost into tears, especially for the latter. Its not that easy for a university to give a recognition to someone, especially when the achievement was not academic related. The certificate was given by the minister of higher education, YB Dato's Seri Idris Jusoh. Thank you very much.


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Negaraku icons, Dato Soh Chin Aun, myself, Dr Arshil (scientist), Dato Ziana Zain & Dato Rosyam Noor

In Oct 2017, I successfully published my long-awaited book, Global Dream Ride – Andai Ini Takdir Yang Kupilih (If This Is My Chosen Destiny) (Series 1). I put my heart n soul in the writing of this book. Hence many admitted that they cried reading it and they felt as if I'm sitting next to them telling them the story and challenges that I faced before and during the journey. This malay-written book was sold at RM29.90 (Peninsular Msia) and RM35 (Sabah & Srwk). Send me a message at my FB Messenger 

https://www.facebook.com/anita.yusof.5 if you are interested to purchase one. While stock lasts :)





If I were to list out all the activities and events which I attended, its going to take forever for me to finish this post. So I better stop here :)

I closed the year 2017 with an amazing ride to 2nd most beautiful country on earth, New Zealand. The story? Stay tuned.....






NEW ZEALAND PART 1: NORTH ISLAND (AUCKLAND - KAITAIA - CAPE REINGA - KAWAKAWA - COROMANDEL - OPOTIKI - TOLAGA BAY - LAKE TUTIRA - WELLINGTON)

Very sorry for the long delay. Better late than never, right? So I was doubting, where must I ride for my year-end holidays? Given that its year-end, the northern hemisphere will be chilly as its going to be mid autumn changing to winter, so its not appropriate to ride in the north at this time of the year. It left me with options, either South America (again?), Africa, Australia and New Zealand (apart from South East Asia which I had done many times before and dont feel like repeating).

I finally chose NZ to ride. Approx three months prior, I was contacted by Matthew, a rider from the States whom I met at Sumbawa during Horizons Unlimited event, asking to meet me in Ipoh. During our conversation, I told Matthew about my intention to ride in NZ, and Matthew who rode in NZ prior to Australia, Indonesia and Malaysia, linked me with his NZ friend, Bill Irwin. The latter happened to be one of the kindest soul I had met in my entire life. We started emailing each other and Bill promised to help me find a bike when I decided not to bring my own as air freight and carnet fees will be pricey. I was surprised when Bill told me later that he had actually BOUGHT a second hand bike for me to use, a Suzuki GN250. I was thrilled. No one has done that to me before (and I never expect anyone would). He was such an angel. Not just that, he also helped to plot my route in South Island, and linked me with his friends, John and Heather in Auckland. The bike was stored at the latter’s home in Auckland, waiting for me to arrive.

While Bill is the owner of the newly purchased bike, John is a mechanic. Under Bill’s request, he helped to prepare the bike for me such as changing the tires, engine oil, chain and fixing a usb charger on the bike. Both Bill and John didnt charge me a single cent for everything that had been done on the bike. I was so lucky and grateful.

DAY 1 & 2: 22nd– 23rd Nov 2017, KUL - GOLD COAST - AKL

I boarded Airasia flight from KUL to Auckland via Gold Coast. It was a long 12 hours flight and I was pretty exhausted. I arrived Auckland International Airport at 5.40pm local time. I had to spend more than 1 hour for customs declaration and had to go through a very strict inspection. Fortunately I did my research and I knew that I must prepare a list of all food that I had with me, and make sure that its commercially packed (canned, packaged, bottled). Strictly no fresh produce from plants, animals and dairy products. Declare every single thing. Ask if you are unsure of anything. Give the list to the officer in charge to smoothen the inspection.

Walla, my entire food ration passed the inspection. The officer inspected my tent as well to make sure no soil was taken into the country. (Yes, its very strict.) If you wanna avoid hassles, bring a new (never used) tent.Once done, I exited the arrival hall and was welcomed warmly by John and Heather who kindly offered to fetch me at the airport. I was taken to their nice home at the northern part of Auckland. The road was quite heavy with traffic as it was peak hour.  I took the opportunity to check on the locals driving attitude and to my relief, New Zealanders driving attitude were good. We had a lovely dinner later, accompanied by Haakan and Georgia, (friends of my hosts), who owned a two wheels tour company in AKL. Spinach fritata, potatoes in curry, fruit salad and bread were served for dinner. Heather is a great cook and I really had a feast. 

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From left: Myself, Heather, John, Haakan and Georgia
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Yummyyy....fresh fruits with ice cream


While having dinner, we discussed about my route and John and Haakan gave me lots of tips for my upcoming ride in this Kiwi country.

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NZ PART 1 is the blue route

 Day 3: 24th Nov 2017, AUCKLAND - KAITAIA 


After breakfast, I went down to the garage to see the bike which is going to be mine for my ride in the 5th continent (Oceania) for me, New Zealand (thank you Bill). The 2006 Suzuki GN250 is12 years old, but who cares, as long it works fine and takes me where ever I want to go, its good enough for me. Before setting off, Heather took me to a nearby mall for me to purchase NZ simcard. It was quite pricey, NZD35 for 28 days usage. Back home, I packed my things into Givi soft cases which were given to me by Givi SRL Italy. The cases fit on the bike nicely. Later, I said goodbye to Heather while John leads me for about 40kms out of the city, and after that I’m on my own.



There's actually a straight Motorway 1 heading north but I chose to ride the back road via route 16 - 12, passing two nice forest parks. The road was very quiet, winding with rolling hills and it was pretty chilly bcos it was drizzling on and off. The road was slippery when wet and theres a lot of signs warning vehicles to be careful. 


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Love the trees here



I reached the small town of Rawene and took the ferry to cross to the other side (NZD5). 



The road continued to wind and I started to climb up a mountain which was quite steep and when I reached the highest point, something really funny happened.



FYI, this bike had a 10L fuel tank and it didnt has a fuel indicator. I had no idea how far it can go (nor did Bill and John, as they never tried the bike). The first time I refill petrol earlier, I had ridden 135kms and only half of the tank was used. So my mind calculated that full tank will be approximately 270kms. I had done 230kms when I reached the highest point of the mountain road when suddenly the engine died. Theres no petrol station I could find after the ferry ride. When the engine died, I knew that the tank must have been dried up already. This is the first time ever that I ran out of petrol during my entire advriding history. Luckily I already reached the peak of the mountain road, so I let gravity pulled me and the bike for another 5kms or so, descending slowly until the bike finally stopped. I checked my GPS, the nearest petrol station is in Kaitaia, 20kms away. Its almost dark by that time and the road was very quiet. I had to wait quite a while before a car passed. I waved, and the nice Maori driver stopped. However, he was in a hurry and couldnt take me to the petrol station. He drove me to the nearest house (1km from where I left the bike) for me to try my luck. New Zealanders, especially in the remote area, normally kept some petrol at home for their own use. I was so fortunate that the house owner had some fuel in his red jerry can, well not much actually, only about 1L, but it managed to get me into town. 






I finally reached my host's house at 8.30pm after riding 400kms today. Si, my host is a very nice guy. He was originally from Cook Island (one very tiny island in the middle of South Pacific Ocean). He made dinner for me and showed me a video of his home island. It was so lovely, but not cheap to go. We talked for a while and made a plan for tomorrow before I retire to bed. It was a long day for me.


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Si made rice with tuna and veges for me. Thx Si :)




Day 4: 25th Nov 2017, KAITAIA - CAPE REINGA 



The good thing when you stayed with a local host is you get to see what normal tourist couldnt see. But the not so good thing is when the host is not a motorcyclist, they might not give you accurate advice on the road condition.My host brought me up to a 'secret' cliff to get a birds-eye view of 90 Mile Beach. He said that the last part of the road is not accessible by car but easy for a motorbike. I followed his car to the place where he finally stopped and parked his car. He pointed me the direction while he walked and I continued riding.  It was 3kms of steep climb on multi-terrain - soft sands, some sunken 4WD’s track which sunk up to my knees, some gravel parts and some puddles. Yes, I did see some dirt bike riders up here, but the GN250 with street tires I’m riding was not made for this kind of track. HAHAHA...it was quite challenging but I survived. It was actually quite fun too. 

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Which way now?
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Auwwwww

Sadly it was a cloudy day. So the view of the ocean from the cliff of 90 Mile Beach was not as blue. It was said that during low tide, one could ride or drive on this beach all the way to Cape Reinga, the northernmost of NZ (thats how this place got its name), but it was not advisable to do it.

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The view of 90 Mile Beach from the viewpoint up the cliff

After some photo sessions, we went back to Si’s house. I only took what I need for my ride and rode 100kms on a nice hilly twisties but I was freezing due to some drizzles. The road, as usual, was quiet. Lots of green grasslands and wildflowers could be seen. Once in a while, I bumped into tourists motorhomes or campervans, all heading or coming from the northernmost of NZ, Cape Reinga. I refuel at the last station which was about 20kms from the Cape and stopped few times for pics enroute. 

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I loveeee deserted road






I finally reached the visitor center, parked my bike and walked about 800m to the famous lighthouse. The view of the Tasman Sea crashing over the rocks down below made me so much in awe looking at how beautiful is God’s creation.


I spent about 1 hour here, just lazing and enjoying the waves and the view. Then I get back to my bike and ride to search for a campsite. The apps which I used to find campsites in NZ was Rankers Camping NZ. It was a very useful app and I used it for the entire trip in NZ. However, this app need internet to function. Not a problem for me because I already have my NZ sim card installed on my hp. The cheapest campground was normally the one operated by the Department of Conservation (DOC), offering basic facilities, while the best facility campsite is the holiday parks, but much more expensive. Please bear in mind that freedom camping is strictly not allowed in NZ except for self-contained motorhomes only. If you are caught, the fine is hefty.

I found Camp Tapotupotu on the apps and rode on gravels for about 3kms to reach the place. The view was incredible as I made my descent to the campground. I chose my spot, a lovely beachfront site, away from other people. There was no DOC’s officer in charge here, but one must pay the fee (NZD8) in a box. I cooked a simple dinner and retired early for the night. I didnt get a good night sleep as I didnt feel comfortable. My mistake of being lazy not to use my air mattress because I thought the soft grass was enough but it wasnt. Well, age factor...sigh...


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Lovely Camp Tapotupoyu


Day 5th: 26 Nov 2017, CAPE REINGA - PAIHIA - KAWAKAWA

I took my time lazing and enjoying the beach view, and also practiced my Spanish with some tourists from Argentina before packing my things back on the bike. 


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Gd morning world

Then I made my way south, stopping first at the famous Giant Sand Dunes. It was a 4kms offroad ride to reach this place. This is the biggest sand dunes in NZ. You can play sand boarding here and the board rental fee is NZD8 – 10. I only prefer to watch but not to play. Riding solo, I need to be more careful with my outdoor activities. Should anything bad happen to me, who is going to look after me?



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The Giant Sand Dunes


From the sand dunes, I rode to Paihia via route 10 and 11. Paihia is a nice beach resort town on the north island. I waited for a friend to fetch me at a petrol station which faced the beautiful sea. Roger came soon after and I followed him to his house at a very secluded hill in Kawakawa. It was a steep offroad ride to reach his house and I was quite worried if I cant handle the bike. Fortunately, I managed it. Roger had some friends coming for dinner and we spent the time chatting about my plan in NZ.
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Roger, my host @ Kawakawa


Day 6th: 27 Nov 2017, KAWAKAWA - COROMANDEL 

There are lots of offroad opportunities in NZ, especially in the north island which was pretty neglected by the government. Throughout my ride, I noticed that only the main road is paved, while the one which branches out from the main road is not.

It was raining in the morning when I want to leave Roger’s house. The gravels wre wet and I didnt have the confidence to ride the bike down the 800m steep path from his house to the main road, afraid if I dropped the bike and damaged it. I am always extra careful when the bike I’m riding wasnt mine. Roger helped to ride the bike down while I trailed behind. I said thanks and waved goodbye to him and made my way south via Motorway 1. 



The highway became busier when I’m nearing Auckland. For information, there are several stretches in the north island of NZ has tolls (which motorbikes are not exempted), and you must register online to use the road. There is no toll booth for you to take your ticket or to pay your toll at the end of the stretch. Since Heather had helped to register my bike on the online toll payment website, I happily took the toll road. Its not expensive for motorbikes, only about NZD2 – NZD3, but certainly significant in making your journey a lot faster than taking the secondary road.




After bypassing Auckland, I continued on route 1 – 2 – 25. I need to reach Thames ASAP bcos a Malaysian traveler wanna meet me. I arrived at the small town earlier than him and started to look around for a place to relax and have a chat. I found a Chinese restaurant and while I’m parking my bike, a car stopped abruptly next to me which made me jumped. Before I can curse the driver, a head poked out from the window and greeted me. It was him, Jeroong Wia or his real name is Wan. He bought me lunch and we had a nice 2 hours conversation at the restaurant. We also went to PakNSave, a big hypermarket similar to Tesco to buy groceries. Wan showed me a sausage brand Tegel which is halal to eat. 


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Me and Wan @ Jeerong Wia

We then parted and I followed the coast of Coromandel to my designated campground at Tapu. The ride was lovely. Even though the road was pretty narrow, the fine weather and the blue sea made the ride so enjoyable. I found the campground (NZD17) and searched for a nice place to pitch my tent. I settled at a spot next to a renovated 4WD. The owner was not around so I took a moment to admire his vehicle. If only I can own one like this. 



I then pitched my tent and enjoyed a very beautiful sunset. 




The 4WD owner returned with his kayak (yes, he got a kayak with him) with his catch. His name is Lawrence. He’s a Zimbabwean Chinese but had resided in NZ for more than 10 years. He invited me to have dinner with him. He grilled the freshly caught fish. It tasted so good. We chatted while eating and he told me that he sold his computer business and had been traveling around NZ for a year and a half. He also designed his 4WD compartments and did all the electrical things himself. When asked if he encountered any danger while kayaking to fish, he told me about his encounters with sharks and the danger of big waves which almost crashed his kayak.





28th Nov 2017:, COROMANDEL - HAHEI - CATHEDRAL COVE - TAURANGA - OPOTIKI

It was a looonggg ride today. I started with a ride around the Coromandel Peninsular, following route 25. The road was narrow with lots of twisties. I cant ride fast but I didnt mind because the view took my breath away. If only I have a drone which can capture my act from above.




I stopped at Hahei Beach, but I couldnt hike to the famous Cathedral Cove because its going to take me 1:30 hrs so the only opportunity was to take a boat.
After some time spent there, I continued to Hot Water Beach, but theres an entrance fee, so I forgo the idea. As I was getting late, I raced south and the road got wider when I rode on route 2. There was a massive traffic jam as I approached Tauranga as it was 5.30pm and there were roadworks. I tried to be patient in the beginning, queuing as the other vehicles, but there was no movement at all. I am not going to reach my destination before sundown if this continues so I rode on the shoulder. After a while, I heard someone shouting at me, “Damn you mother fucker!!” I knew it was meant for me because I cut the queue, but I just ignored it. FYI, in NZ, motorbikes must queue just like other vehicles, at the traffic light, roundabout or traffic jam. Its not like in Malaysia where motorbikes can lane split and move straight to the front. I rode carefully while scanning the area, ready to get back in lane if there are traffic policemen around. Normally, I followed the road rules especially in a foreign country, however, I’m glad that I didnt this time because the jam was 10kms long!!! Once the road was clear, I sped as fast as I can but I still couldnt reach my destination on time. As the sun was setting, I made up my mind to stop at Opotiki instead. I checked the apps on my phone and headed to Island Bay View Holiday Park. Finally, after riding for 10 hours today, I settled at a nice 4 bedded dorm (but only myself occupying it). Since I was very tired and the place was beautiful, I decided to stay here for 2 nights to recharge. The fees were NZD25 per night but it was worth it.



29th Nov 2017, OPOTIKI

Today is my rest day. So I didnt do anything much but sleeping, eating and just chillaxing by the beach while viewing the South Pacific Ocean. The last time I viewed an open sea like this was when I camped at Alexandroupoli in Greece. The nice feelings gave me the mood to write. As I’m just about to continue writing for the 2nd serial of GDR, I saw a couple walking nude on the beach. Ouchhh. There goes my idea in the sea. HAHAHA...





30th Nov 2017:, OPOTIKI - WAIHAU BAY - TOLAGA BAY

I felt energized after taking a break yesterday and ready to continue. It was a beautiful ride along route 35 which followed the coast most of the times. I found that I paid more attention on the sea rather than the road. At times, I passed a beautiful countryside with green grassland, and lots of sheep and cow fields. At other times, there were lots of twisties and tight switchbacks. I'm always alone on the quiet narrow road except when passing small villages. The weather was very funny here. At one time its bright and sunny, the next minute its cloudy and rainfall soon after. However, the view was nice.  
My bike almost ran out of fuel after passing Waihau Bay. Fuel stations are scarce here, and the lack of fuel meter on the bike plus the constant ascends and descends made matters worse. I stopped to check for the nearest station on Google map. There were two stations at Te Araroa which was about 50kms away. I rode slowly to save fuel.



When I reached the place, only one was opened and it only accepted credit card. I didnt want to use my Malaysian credit card, afraid of the high charges as happened before during my world ride. Fortunately, there were some bikers going for their weekend ride and I asked if they could help. One of them said yes, and co-incidentally when he rode in Malaysia previously, he was well welcomed by Malaysian bikers. Not only he let me refuel using his card, he refused to accept NZD12 of cash which I gave him. Biker brotherhood everywhere. Thank you bro :)
I finally reached my destination and as usual, I will check the apps for a place to pitch my tent. Please bear in mind that campsites were often fully booked at popular destinations during summer or public holidays, so its wise to book ahead. As for me, now is the end of spring so I do not need to book in advance. I choose to camp at Tolaga Bay Holiday Park (NZD17) as suggested by Haakan the other day. The oldest wharf in NZ was located here. It was a very beautiful and quiet spot and I had the beach all to myself for a few hours to enjoy. I walked on the wharf till the end and just lazed around enjoying the moment.







1st Dec 2017, TOLAGA BAY - LAKE TUTIRA

After packing my things, I headed south bypassing Gisborne. I really love riding in NZ. Its super easy to navigate and the signs were very clear everywhere. I didnt need my GPS at all. Most of the time, I only memorized the town names and the route number and I was never lost. However, internet was another story. Only at towns u can get connection, not at remote areas. My SPARK simcard didnt work at Tolaga Bay which I camped yesterday and campgrounds normally have additional charges if you want to use their wifi. So whenever I passed towns, I will stop for a while to check or send messages from my phone. 

The view to Lake Tutira was very beautiful. Winding road all the way along the coast and I passed some scenic reserved on route 2. There’re lots of scenic reserves in NZ and it was awesome to see the different type of trees. I was blessed to have a good weather and a very enjoyable ride today.







However, it was not the case at Lake Tutira campground. The lake itself was so blue and beautiful, but the campground was not managed and there were lots of animal poops everywhere. I had to settle with it and closed one eye. I told myself that I will be here only for one night, so just ignore it. After all, its organic and its FOC. HAHAHA...


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Lake Tutira




2nd Dec 2017, LAKE TUTIRA - WELLINGTON

Its been a while that I didnt scream inside my helmet due to the wind. If memory served me well, the last time the wind scared the hell out of me was in Iran, approximately 17 months back. However, here in the north island of NZ today, the northern wind decided to say "hello" to me.

In the beginning, the ride was calm. I bypassed Napier and Hastings and had my lunch of fish n chips at Palmerston North (the cheapest I found, only NZD4.80). After lunch, out of nowhere, I started to feel the presence of wind. I knew that Wellington is a very windy city and I had been warned about how harsh wind in NZ can be. However, I am still far, about 150kms from the city. Since I started riding 8 days ago, there were some winds, but none was disturbing. It got harder and harder when I was ascending Rimutaka Hills. Gosh...I cant move forward even when using 2nd gear. It was a tough climb on the narrow, winding and steep road, and when I finally reached the peak and started to descend, the wind got worst that I was shoved to the opposite lane for 3 times. God knows how scary that was and how I struggled to get back to my lane. Unlike Ruta 40 in Argentina which was deserted, this road was quite busy and there was one time that there was a vehicle coming from the opposite direction while I’m still unable to bring my bike back into my lane. Phewww, that was really close.


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Rimutaka Hill

Thank god Kiwi drivers were very patient. They trailed behind me until I reached a bay to pull over and let them passed. Not once was I honked by those drivers. After pulling over, I was surprised to see very long lines of traffic behind me. When the road was deserted again, I continued riding. I was sooo relieved when I finally reached the foothill. The wind was still strong but not as bad as when I’m on top of the hill. I was exhausted by the time I reached my host’s house at Upper Hutt.


Andy and Edith Rackstraw welcomed me to their beautiful and cozy home. The owner of the bike and also the couple’s friend, Bill Irwin was also there. Bill had just returned from his Taiwan ride and now riding back to his home in Nelson. I am going to follow him back tomorrow, and the couple was so kind to let me overnight at their house. We had a nice conversation over dinner. Edith made a delicious vegetable kurma, to be eaten with rice. I told them about my scary wind experience, only to be told that Rimutaka Hill was famed for its crazy strong wind. No wonder I did see a warning sign for motorcycles before I ascend the hill. I thought the warning was meant for motorcycles racing on the winding road. Little that I knew the sign was meant that the wind can endanger motorcyclists.





NEW ZEALAND PART 2: SOUTH ISLAND (PICTON - NELSON - FAREWELL SPIT - WHARARIKI BEACH - MOTUEKA VALLEY - WESTPORT - KARAMEA - SCOTTS BEACH - OPARARA - PUNAKAIKI - CHRISTCHURCH - LAKE TEKAPO - MT COOK NP - CROMWELL - DUNEDIN - INVERCARGILL - BLUFF - TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND - QUEENSTOWN - FRANZ JOSEF - LAKE MAHINAPUA - KAIKOURA - NELSON)

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Part 2 - The eastern route


3rd Dec 2017, WELLINGTON - PICTON - NELSON

After saying goodbye to my wonderful hosts, Bill and I made our way to Wellington which was about 30kms away. We stopped for a while at the beachfront to enjoy the view and took some pics. Then I trailed behind Bill to the jetty. Bill had purchased my ferry ticket online. FYI, the ticket price varied from time to time. It was ridiculously expensive before, during and after a festive occasion. My ticket to the south island today is NZD84, but for my return journey on 27th Dec, the price for the same journey but heading north is NZD148. Its also very important to check-in as early as possible at the booth near the jetty because sometimes, the ferry departed earlier than the scheduled time.


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Andrew and Edith, my host in Wellington
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Bill and I

I chatted with Bill in the ferry for a while but had to excuse myself when I felt a slight dizziness. I managed to doze off and awakened just in time when the ferry entered the passage of small isles of the South Island. Bill was outside and I joined him. The view was so so beautiful and I’m so glad that I didnt miss it. I can see luxury yachts, speed boats and people playing jet ski. The sea was very blue and the mountains on the scattered small islands were so green. Bill told me that the overgrown of the natural plants on the small islands were a problem for the country.



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Vehicles inside the ferry

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The natural plants which was a problem for the country
 After 3:15 hours sailing, the ferry finally docked in Picton. We rushed to our bikes to get ready to leave the ferry. Bill had told me earlier to take the 35kms scenic but very narrow with lots of tight switchbacks Queen Charlotte Drive road and meet him at a restaurant in Havelock. He was a very skilful rider. Within 10 minutes, he was out of my sight. I rode alone slowly while enjoying the view. It was indeed a very scenic ride. The view was soooo beautiful.

I found the restaurant, and Bill was surprised that it didnt take too long for me to arrive, only about 10 minutes behind him. His biker friend was with him. The seafood pizza which we had for lunch was so yummy. It was my first time tasting NZ prawns and mussels. The mussels were big and juicy. The taste was not the same as Msian mussels which were drier. I preferred NZ mussels much more.




After lunch, we rode back to Bill’s home in Nelson. Again, I lost him after a while. The road to Nelson was in good condition but there were two big hills for me to tackle. I was getting worried because my bike was low on fuel. I found a petrol station but again, only credit card was accepted. There were some bikers here but unfortunately none wanna help me. Okay, so the brotherhood spirit were not as everywhere as I had thought earlier. HAHAHA. I had to ride very slowly and all the while whispering a silent prayer hoping that my bike can last until I found a petrol station in Nelson. Yes, it did, but only until Nelson, not the petrol pump which was 2 kms away. I stopped a car asking for help. The nice guy asked me to wait while he drove back to his house nearby. He came back with a jerry can and poured some fuel for me. I thanked him for his help and rode straight to the petrol station to fill up my tank.


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Thank you for helping me :)
I found Bill’s house without difficulty. Bill lived on a hill. His house was big and beautiful. He was worrying about my delay and I told him what had happened. I was introduced to her kind wife, Cornish. We chatted for a while at the balcony while enjoying the beautiful green view down the valley. How I wished I can have a house like this. Later in the evening, the couple treated me at a Malaysia restaurant. Bill ordered laksa, Cornish had fried noodles and I ordered chicken rendang which tasted more like curry, but delicious nevertheless.

4th Dec 2017, NELSON

Today is my rest day at Bill’s house. I managed to wash the bike which was so dirty due to the rainy ride in North Island previously. I was so amazed to see Bill’s garage. He was a collector. He got approximately 40 bikes of different brands (mostly Ducatis and Bimotas) inside the garage and there were some which he had to put elsewhere because his garage was already full. He also had complete tools and machines to work on his bikes. Amazing.



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Some of Bill's collection
While in Nelson, the couple took me for sightseeing inside the town and we also went to see the port and sunset at a view point




As a token of appreciation, I offered to cook for them. Bill brought me to Countdown supermarket and we asked the butcher about halal meat. We were informed that all sheeps and cows in NZ were slaughtered by muslim butchers so its halal. The only issue was the cutting table where the supermarket staff sliced the meat into smaller portions as it was shared for all kinds of meat including pork. We asked for a new meat (straight from the box and not yet processed). We headed home and I busied myself at the kitchen, cooking lamb briyani rice with lamb curry and stir fry mixed vege. I am sooo glad that my hosts loved my cooking.




I also took the time to study my upcoming route and answered to lots of messages in my inbox. Among the commonly asked was why was my bike stranded by the road side due to dried tank? The answers are:
1. The bike I’m using didnt have a fuel indicator, so I had no idea how much fuel left in the tank.
2. Not just that, when the fuel had reached reserved, the warning light didnt turn on automatically.
3. Seriously lack of petrol stations especially in the remote area in NZ...and I’m not riding at popular destinations only, I covered the road less travelled as well.
4. Not all petrol stations here accept cash. Some only accept credit card. I’m reluctant to use my Malaysian credit card due to the ridiculous charges.
5. The roads in NZ are not always flat but with lots of ascends and descends. There are times that I had to fight with the wind coming from front or sides. This makes it difficult for me to predict how much fuel had been used. On flat road and non-windy days, the full tank can last for 250kms, but there are times that the tank dried in less than 200kms covered because of using low gears and fighting head wind.
Conclusion, taking spare fuel is essential!!!  



5th Dec 2017, NELSON - COLLINGWOOD

I left Bill’s house after lunch. I stopped by at Pak n Save in Richmond (my favourite supermarket as things sold here were the cheapest compared to other outlets) to buy some groceries. My destination for today is Collingwood. I had to climb up Takaka Hill on route 60. As usual, the road was winding but the view of the valley was awesome
I had some difficulties finding my host’s house. My GPS (which I only used to find certain places) directed me to another house which I need to cross a small stream. The owner told me that my host’s house was next to him but I need to take another path. So I had to cross the stream once again. Fortunately I didnt drop the bike as the base was very rocky. 



I found the house and waited for my host, Joe Hambrook, to return home from work. Joe is an advrider whom I met during Horizons Unlimited event in Sumbawa last May. Joe finished his 6 years RTW ride few months back and now settled back in his homeland. 


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Joe's cute house
Joe arrived about an hour later. It was so nice meeting him again. Unfortunately, Joe had to work outstation for the next days, but he let me stay at his home. That night, as it was the eve of my birthday, Joe treated me dinner at a cafe. I had mussels soup eaten with gingerbread. Thanks Joe.

6th Dec 2017, WHARARIKI BEACH

Happy 50th birthday to meeeeee. My bday was spent with a beautiful ride to Farewell Spit and Wharariki Beach. This was the good things when you stayed with locals as they will advise you the bestest places at remote areas which normal tourists had no clue. 





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Blue water on the left, green on the right. Amazing.

To get here, I had to ride till the end of the paved road at Puponga village, followed by 6kms on gravels and finally, a nice 1km hike on rolling hills to the beach. 





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First sight of Wharariki Beach
It was a bit hard to walk on the thick soft sands for the last 300m but it worth all the effort. It took me 30 minutes to hike because of lots of stopping for pics. The viewwww...soooo lovely. What better way for an advrider to spend a bday than being on a secluded beautiful beach with a nice bar of dark choc given by Bill?
I enjoyed the beach and sea view from a small hill for about 2 hours. The beach was deserted. Less than 10 people on a beautiful white sandy beach with the very blue waters. What more can I ask on a bday? Almost every year since the past 7 years, I celebrated my bday alone outside Msia, but I never regret it at all. In fact, I’m enjoying every moment of it. TQ Allah for another year of life, the good health, the rezeki, and all the nikmat and travel opportunities that You gave me.     



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Love the bushes


7th Dec 2017, COLLINGWOOD - MOTUEKA VALLEY - WESTPORT - KARAMEA

I couldnt sleep last night. I had no idea why. Maybe because of the quietness of Joe’s house which was surrounded with lots of trees and a bit inside from the main road. Its too quiet that if I drop a pin on the floor, I can hear it. I managed to doze off for 2 hours or so. Around 8am, I packed my things and leave. I should ride to Abel Tasman NP as the view was said to be very beautiful. However, its a long ride today and its going to take 2 hours return trip to get there as the road to Abel Tasman was narrow and winding, so I had to give it a miss. I took the same route 60 passing by Takaka Hill. Then I turned right at Motueka and took Motueka Valley Road and route 6 along greenish Buller River. The road was very quiet but beautiful. Only once in a while, I saw other vehicles. Gone were the green grasses which I had witnessed since the past 2 weeks and was replaced by orange and yellow views. The wind was pretty wild but still tolerable. I had been riding almost 8hrs but only managed to cover 300kms due to stopping frequently for pics.


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I saw this unique tree at Motueka Valley




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Beautiful Buller River


I stopped at Westport for a short break and to use internet as I’m not sure if the place I’m heading today has data coverage or not. After that I continued for another 100kms more along the coast on route 67 to reach Karamea. The Karamea Highway was very deserted, narrow, winding and climbing. There were few stretches where the road was broken due to landslides. I was so tired by the time I reached my destination. I went straight to Karamea Holiday Park campground but the fees were expensive. I searched for another place and settled at Karamea Domain campground which also had dorm beds. I paid NZD28 (for 2 nights at the dorm). I made friends with Dominic, Tom and Nadia and we agreed to go sightseeing together the next day.





8th Dec 2017, KARAMEA

After breakfast, we hopped into Dominic’s car and drove to the end of the road at Kohaihai Shelter. This place was in Kahurangi National Park. Then we trekked for 3kms to Scotts Beach. This was the reason why I rode so far to Karamea, to see this beach. It took us 2 hours return trip by foot. It was pretty exhausting for me as the track was on rolling hills. This same track was also part of the 4 days 82kms Heaphy Track (one of the nine great NZ walks). I was amazed to see some veterans carrying their heavy backpacks doing this track whilst I was huffing and puffing after only 3kms of trekking. However, as the saying goes, “no pain, no gain.” The super awesome secluded Scotts Beach was sooo clean and soooo beautiful, I dont wanna leave. I was sooo grateful to my NZ friends for telling me about this remote beach as I wouldnt know of its existence if they didnt tell me. There were only us and two other people here. It was amazing to watch the huge waves crashing the beach. How nice if I can pitch my tent here, but as at Wharariki Beach, theres no campground on the beach here and wild camping are strictly prohibited.
After we get back to the car park, we went to for another hike. It was 32kms (return) on rough gravels to reach the site but its well worth the effort. We hiked for another 3 hours more, making a loop, ascending and descending the Oparara Track to see the Oparara Arch, Moira Gate and the Mirror Lake. The view of the lime caves was stunning, but by now my legs are screaming. 
9th Dec 2017, KARAMEA - CAPE FOULWIND - PUNAKAIKI PANCAKE ROCKS - ARTHURS PASS - CASTLE HILL - CHRISTCHURCH

Its a looonggg journey of 450kms today. I started from Karamea in the morning taking the same way back to Westport. My 1st stop was Cape Foulwind and the Seal Colony at Tauranga Bay. Its a 16kms detour from Westport to reach here. I need to hike a little bit to reach the viewpoint. I'm lucky to be able to see some seals. Can u see them in the pics? They disguised really well. It was amazing to see them hopping on the rocks and swam in the sea like a pro, and struggled to get back to shore as the waves were huge and they got slammed on the rocks. As my destination was still far, I could only watch them for 30mins even though I felt that I can spend all day watching them. Do u know that seals can swim at 30kmh speed?




I saw a deer farm while riding on Wilsons Lead Road to get back to the highway. I couldnt help but to stop by the roadside to admire them. The deers came running to the fence upon hearing my bike’s engine sound. The sight of their ears perked and their big curious eyes looking at me was the 2nd cutest sight that I had seen in my life (the 1st will be the marmot’s act in Kyrgyzstan mountains). How I laughed upon watching them.



Then I continued riding south via route 6. The weather was sometimes very cloudy and at other times, theres little sunlight. However the wind was blowing like real crazy and I was worried of my ride along the coast. Few times the wind gusts shoved me, but I can still control my bike. My next stop was Punakaiki Pancake Rocks. I had been here during my NZ first visit in 2002 but I revisit to see what had changed in 15 years. Indeed there were some changes on the limestone rock erosions. Also the walkway was longer now compared to before. Last time you could only view the flat part from a distance away (which a Msian gymnast, forgot her name, did somersaults for MILO commercial), but now the improved walkway enabled me to see the pancake layers really up close. Its an amazing sight of how wind, temperature and salt managed to give effect on such rocks. Subhanallah for His creations.






I stopped for fuel at Greymouth. I remembered my horror experience staying at a haunted YHA Hostel here, way back in 2002 (not knowing that I will experience the same for tonight). I continued riding and upon reaching Kumara Junction, I took the left turning via route 73. It was raining as I ascended the narrow road to Arthurs Pass so I had to ride really carefully. 



It was cold and I was freezing. Fortunately the rain stopped after the pass and I was blessed with a very breathtaking view which amazed me so much. The most beautiful scenic road in NZ, I must say. The view seemed like Kyrgyzstan + Mongolia + Utah combined together. I’m sure it would have been lovelier if theres enough sunshine. Unfortunately the sun was too shy and the wind was crazy. I was shoved few times, but not as bad as the other day at Rimutaka Hill. Besides, there were very few vehicles on this road so its not that stressful.


My next stop was Castle Hill. I was already tired and cold by this time, so I didnt feel like walking anymore.




Finally, I reached Christchurch after riding 450kms in 10 hours (inclusive of refuel and sightseeing stops). In Malaysia, I can do 450kms in 4 hours (or less), but not here in NZ. Especially when the road was winding, wet and slippery. Dont be overconfident to speed when it rained. There were plenty of warning signs showing ‘slippery when wet’ road. You may have the greatest riding skill, but the road might not compromise with you.




I checked in at an Air BnB house which owned by a Chinese family. I was surprised to know that I was the only occupant in the whole house which was newly renovated. Theres no facility in the house except a kitchen cabinet, a fridge, a kettle and a bed and a small table in my room. I was told that the owner just bought this house and I am his first tenant. I was happy to get one whole house for the price of a room. I’m sure I will get a decent sleep tonight. Not like sleeping in dorms where lots of concerts being played throughout the night. But how wrong I was.

After showered, prayed and rested a little bit, My Malaysian biker friend, Fendi Lokman arrived. He and his friends from OBAMA Bikers were done riding in NZ and they were having a BBQ party that night. I followed them to their rented apartment and met the whole group and their families. Delicious BBQ lamb, chicken, mutton and other variety of foods were served. I loved the lasagne made by one of them, so yummy. I chatted with Dato Faizal, Nazli and the others while eating. To my surprise, they also celebrated my birthday. Never did I celebrate own bday abroad with a bday cake. This was the very 1st time. I was almost into tears for their thoughts. Thank you very much Fendi and the whole group for making this year a special one for me.
Fendi sends me back to my apartment at 11am. Around 12.30am, while I was about to doze off, I heard funny noises from the room next door. What was that? Suddenly, I heard a loud door slam sound which made my heart throbbed like a machine gun vomiting bullets from its mouth. I sat on my bed and tried to focus. I remembered checking all the other rooms this afternoon, and obviously, the only room with furniture was in my room. But how come I heard the sound of rusty hinge of a cupboard door being opened and closed? How come theres a squeaking sound of someone changing position on a rusty wooden bed?

I was very scared. I dared not move from my bed. My eyes fixed on the door, ready to jump if someone/something enters my room. There were times that the sound was so loud, I felt like my heart was being ripped off. I put up a post on FB telling what had happened and received lots of replies. Some insensitive so-called friends regard my post as funny. Yeah, its very funny. Wait until you experience it yourself, all alone in a foreign place, and tell me how do you feel...and thats if you dont die of a heart attack. Dont worry, I promise not to laugh.


10th Dec 2017, CHRISTCHURCH

I survived the whole night without sleeping a wink. Imagine...after a very exhaustive ride from Karamea to ChCh, and returning to my room with a very full stomach from the BBQ party, I ended with no sleep at all. The scary sounds finally stopped nearing sunrise. I was so sleepy by then but all I wanted was to get out of this house ASAP. I’m supposed to stay here for 2 nights (and had already paid). However, after what had happened, I contacted the owner and asked for a refund for the 2nd night. Fortunately he understood. I checked in at another Air BnB, and this time I got a room in a family’s home. It was expensive for my budget, NZD50 per night, but I was tired and sleepy. So I slept the whole day and night to make sure the money I paid really worth it. HAHAHA...


11th Dec 2017, CHRISTCHURCH - LAKE TEKAPO

I should visit Akaroa yesterday but I had to forgo it due to sleeping the whole day to recharge. Never mind, perhaps some other time. My destination for today is Lake Tekapo. The weather was so-so, but the ride was so scenic via route 79 – 8. Lupines were blooming everywhere. It was soooo colourful. Being a flower lover, I had to stop now and then for pics. I even brought my bike into the flower beds.





Arriving Tekapo, I stopped at Church of Good Shepherd for more pics. This place is a must visit in Tekapo and perhaps the most photographed in NZ. Its a very small one, more like a chapel. The view of Lake Tekapo was beautiful as well. I met an advrider from UK here and we chatted for a while.



Then I rode to Lake Tekapo Holiday Park. I pitched my tent at the best spot I can find. The fee is the most expensive throughout the entire campsites which I camped in NZ (NZD22 per night) but the security and facility were superb. I went for a stroll in the afternoon. Theres a hot steam bath center nearby but the entrance fee was not in my budget. During the night, I spent the time on the beach chair looking up the sky. Tekapo was said as the best place to stargaze in NZ. Indeed it was. Millions of stars twinkling and milky way appeared soon after. I was in awe looking at it. Subhanallah...


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Lake Tekapo

12th Dec 2017, LAKE TEKAPO - MT COOK NP

I continued my ride from Lake Tekapo to Mt Cook via Lake Pukaki. Its only 103km in distance. The weather is unpredictable but the views were magnificent. Blue lakes with the background of snow peak mountain and the blooming lupines....Its very picturesque. 





I stopped at Lavender Farm. To my surprise, a group of Malaysian tourists was there and one of them was my follower. She recognized me straight away and called her friends for a selfie with me. It took about 10 minutes to entertain them. I should have charged NZD10 per pic taken with me and I can use the money for my fuel, dont you think so? HAHAHA...I’m just kidding.




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A souvenir shop at the farm
I continued riding to Mt Cook National Park. As I’m nearing the end of route 80, the view of the gigantic Mt Cook came into view. It was magnificent. 


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Lake Pukaki


I found White Horse Hill campground and searched for a place to pitch my tent. It was a weekday, but there were too many people at this campground. After taking a short nap, I trekked the fame Hooker Valley Track. The 10kms trekking took 3 hours (return). The view of Mueller Lake and the bushes along the way were charming in its own way. I had to cross 3 bridges (including a swing bridge) to reach the edge of Hooker Lake. It was quite a walk. 





The reason why I trekked is to witness glaciers and icebergs on the lake. I had never seen an iceberg before. It was an incredible sight. The rivers and lakes were greyish in colour, perhaps due to the sediments from the glaciers. I can only spend 10mins at this viewpoint as I was freezing. The wind was blowing like crazy and the sun was hiding behind thick clouds. Brrrrrrr...




On my way back, again I bumped into a Msian family who also recognized who I was. After a quick conversation and photos, I hurried back to my campsite before it gets dark. The temperature dropped as night fallen. I cooked macaroni for dinner and then retire for the night. I woke up in the middle of the night in need for the toilet and was in awe looking at the brightly lit sky above my head. It got colder after midnight being the lowest at 8’C, but I was comfortable in my tent. Why? Because I was ready this time with a better sleeping bag and a fleece blanket to keep me warm.





13th Dec 2017, MT COOK NP - CROMWELL - MOSGIEL

It was chilly in the morning as it was cloudy. However, it was not so bad until the rain fall as I was heading to Twizel. I was lazy to stop but it was very cold due to the rain and wind, so I had no choice but to stop by the roadside and put on my Givi raincoat, Hevik buff and balaclava and the heated gloves from USA which my friend Deborah bought for me. The heated gloves were heaven and I felt warm instantly. 


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Lindys Pass
I stopped at Cromwell which was a must in NZ. Cromwell was famed for its orchards and fruit ice cream. I took the opportunity to taste the ice cream. Mmmm...sweet and yummy. 





Then I continued riding via route 8 – 85 – 87 (passing by Cromwell Gorge – Clyde – Middlemarch) as suggested by Bill. Indeed it was a very scenic ride. The view of Clutha River was beautiful and the moment I rode on route 87, I felt as if I’m not on earth. The view was yellowish and very barren. It was like I’m on a different planet.

I was enjoying the ride until suddenly the rainfall again. I thought it was only for a short while as the sky far ahead looked bright so I didnt stop to put on my rain gadget. However, I was wrong. The rain became heavier and I was totally soaked to the bones. I was shivering in and out. My mistake.



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A traditional water spray
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Ohhhh noooooo!!!!


The ride became more stressful when the vision was dropped to 10 meters only due to thick fog. I was very tired, cold and hungry, but I still had 65kms more to reach my host’s house.
The narrow winding road didnt give me any excitement anymore. I was struggling to finish the ride. 



Finally, I arrived Mosgiel during sundown and was welcomed warmly by my hosts, Alex and Mary Cockburn. I was showed to my room to change and Mary made me a hot dinner and coffee.


14th Dec 2017, DUNEDIN

Today is my rest day. Alex who was a retiree took me out for sightseeing in his Mercedes. We drove to Orokonui Ecosanctuary. This place was a wildlife refugee center. We chatted at the observatory cafe and witnessed the green surrounding us from the glass while having coffee. Alex and all my other hosts were bikers and were linked to me by either Bill or Heather. Alex told me his riding adventures and it was fun to listen.
After that we drove down to Port Chalmers and view the port from a hill. The view was nice. I really loved the blue sea.
We also drove inside Dunedin and I asked Alex to drive me to Otago University. This was my lecturer’s university (Prof Dr Md Amin). I had been here in 2002. It was nice to stroll around and see the architecture of the buildings which strongly had British influence.



We then headed back home. Too bad I cant see the albatross as now is not the season. Upon reaching home, Mary took me out to the supermarket to buy groceries as I had promised to cook for dinner. The menu was sweet n sour fish and stir-fry broccoli with carrots.



After dinner we chatted at the living room while sipping coffee. I enjoyed listening to Mary. She was a great storyteller. She talked about her kids, daughter-in-laws and her grandkid. Her eyes twinkled while talking to show how much she was proud of her boys. I didnt realize the clock ticking when listening to her. The next thing I knew, it was already 11pm.


15th Dec 2017, MOSGIEL - INVERCARGILL - BLUFF - WINTON

I said goodbye to my kind hosts and rode south via Route 1. According to Alex’s suggestion, I should visit Nugget Point Lighthouse and then follow the Southern Scenic Route. It was a bit difficult to find Nugget Point as I’m not using any navigator, but I found it anyway. I had to trek for about 20 minutes to reach the lighthouse and along the way, I could hear the seals howling a sad cry. The view was not so great because it was cloudy.


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The track to the lighthouse


My next stop was Purakaunui Falls. I had to ride on gravels for about 5kms and then walked 1km to reach the falls. I met Malaysian people again but I just smiled at them. The falls were not as beautiful as in internet pics.
I continued riding via Southern Scenic Route. There were lots of trees here. As I was bypassing Catlins Conservation Park, I started to feel the crosswind. It gets stronger and stronger and was really blowing when I reached Invercargill. Dato Siti Nurhaliza’s husband had a serious fall here while riding his rented motorbike a few years ago, due to the wind. I assumed the wind speed was 50kmh, enough to blow my light bike if I didnt ride with a suitable speed. It was scary, but my previous hosts had thought me how to deal with the situation. I should ride with accordingly speed, not fast and not slow. It was quite a tough ride but I had to hang on for another 30kms to reach Bluff, the southernmost of the south island, NZ.
However, the tiredness released upon finally rolling my wheels at the end of the road at Sterling Point. I parked my bike in front of the famous sign and posed for pics. There were some tourists from Singapore and a busload with European tourists. They gave me a loud applause when they find out that I'm riding solo in NZ and finally reached the southern tip after a journey of 5000km. Girls power, they said. It was a proud moment for me :)



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The end of the road
I rode the same way back to Invercargill. I was supposed to visit Bill Richardson Transport World, a huge museum displaying all kinds of land transport, but I didnt have enough time. I only posed outside the museum.



I sped as fast as I can to Winton. As I rode further away from Bluff, the wind lessened and I finally reached my host’s house around 5pm. My hosts, Jan and Phil had been waiting for me. They used to live in Msia for few years. Their daughter Sarah was babysitted by my bff Deborah sometimes then. Deb was the one linking me with them. They had a nice big house which was not actually built on this spot. Phil showed me pics and videos of how the house which was built at another place but transported to the current location. It was an amazing technology.

I had promised to cook curry for them so I busied myself at the kitchen. Jan had purchased halal beef from the supermarket. We chatted while cooking. I couldnt help laughing when I saw Jan’s pestle and mortar. She admitted that it was brought from Msia. She had a cabinet fool of herbs and spices to cook Asian food. It made my cooking a lot easier. Sarah and her husband Greg arrived before dinner with their kids and we had dinner together. Thank god they loved my cooking. As a matter of fact, they loved Msian food so nasi lemak, roti canai, roti telur, rendang etc were mentioned in our conversation. Phil also asked me about the political situation in Msia as he knew a little bit of whats going on in my country.


NEW ZEALAND PART 3: SOUTH ISLAND (TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND - QUEENSTOWN - WANAKA - ALBERT TOWN - FRANZ JOSEF - LAKE MAHINAPUA - LEWIS PASS - KAIKOURA - NELSON



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PART 3: SOUTH ISLAND the western route

16th Dec 2017, WINTON - TE ANAU

I slept like a baby last night. I woke up upon the sounds of animals outside my window. The room I slept had a farm view which owned by my hosts. I could see some sheep and chickens scattered about. It was a wonderful stay at their big comfy house and Jan asked me to stay for another night. However, I had a schedule to follow so I had to leave. After saying thanks and goodbye to them, I rode north via a secondary road. Upon reaching Mossburn, I turned left to route 94 heading to Te Anau. Very soon after, I felt very strong wind coming from the front. I had to lean down to fight the wind. Again, it was a tiring and annoying situation. Fortunately my ride today was only for 120kms so it wasnt so stressful.

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Very neat and colourful mailbox

I checked in at Te Anau Lakefront Hostel. The fee for a dorm bed was NZD34 per night, the most expensive dorm fee for me in NZ. I had to opt for a hostel because I need to wake up very early tomorrow. If I camped, I will need 1:30 hours to shower, breakfast, packed my tent and camping items and strapped them on the bike. So, camping wasnt an option for me for today. I didnt do nothing much except sitting on a bench opposite the lake and watching sunset.


17th Dec 2017, TE ANAU - MILFORD SOUND - QUEENSTOWN

I started my day very early at 5am. I rode from Te Anau to Milford Sound via route 94. It was raining and very foggy, hence the early start, especially because I didnt want to miss the 8.55am Milford Sound cruise. The mists surrounded the mountains hence only once in a while when it cleared, I managed to see a glimpse of it which was beautiful. I had to ride in and out a few tunnels. 



I arrived MS and went straight to Jucy counter to purchase my ticket. The fare was NZD45, the cheapest compared to other cruises. The cruise departed on time. A piece of cake and a free flow of hot drinks available on board FOC. There were not many people because its still early and not the best time to see MS. I was not as lucky as the weather was shitty. I had been on MS cruise twice and at both times, the weather was not on my side. No luck.




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One of the many waterfalls at Milford Sound



After the cruise, I rode back the same way to Te Anau. There was a very thick fog especially nearing the tunnel. Visibility was only 30m, worse than the time when I came this morning. It was pretty scary because the road was wet, steep and winding. I need to focus 200%. I stopped at the famous Mirror Lake which I had spotted this morning. The lake was crystal clear hence the reflection was like a mirror to the lake.



I refuel at Te Anau and continued riding. Again I had to fight fierce crosswind upon approaching Mossburn. Then only I knew that Mossburn was a high wind area all year long. It rained all the way till Queenstown. Overall I did 11 hours on the road today, covering 420kms. 


I had to find my host’s shop at a food court inside O’Connell Mall. It was Sunday and I had difficulty to find parking outside the mall. I finally found one, am not sure if its safe or not, but I had no choice. I went inside the mall and found my host. Mr Chakra, who owned a Himalayan Nepalese food business (with halal certificate) here. He was linked to me by my cousin, Linda. He asked me to wait for his wife to arrive and she will lead me to their house. I waited and waited but his wife never appears. I almost gave up after waiting for 2 hours. I was cold, wet, hungry, miserable and very tired. I couldnt stay in hostels here because theres no private parking and Queenstown was not as safe as it used to be. I cant stay in hotels either because its too expensive for my wallet.

Finally, Mr Chakra gave me his house address and asked me to go there straight away because his wife ain’t coming. I was like...ok, be patient Anita. Its you who want to stay at people’s home, so bear with it. I rode for another 7kms which took me nearly 30 minutes as the road was narrow and winding and it was quite tricky to find their house. I found the house in the end, 14 hours after I left Te Anau this morning. God knows how tired I was.


18th Dec 2017, QUEENSTOWN

Today is my rest day. I felt much better this morning. I was so hungry because I only had instant noodles last night. While having breakfast, I chatted with Lalitha, Chakra’s wife. They had lived more than 10 years in NZ and their food business was doing well. They were planning to open another branch soon. Good for them. I followed Lalitha to Queenstown Central and she dropped me at the tourist info center. I grabbed a map and checked the walking route. It was quite hot today but I walked along the Esplanade to YHA Lakefront which I stayed in 2002. There’re lots of new hotels along the road, not like last time. However, the view of Lake Wakatipu and the surrounding mountains remained unchanged. Still beautiful. 


Then I walked back to the central and watched buskers for a while. I did my souvenir shopping at DS souvenir shop and walked to a nearby park just to laze. I didnt do any activities such as jet boating or bungy because I had done all that way back in 2002. 


Around 5pm I went back to the mall. Lalitha made me rice with lamb curry. It was yummy. She was a great cook.

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My host, Lalitha & Chakra





19th Dec 2017, QUEENSTOWN - WANAKA -  ALBERT TOWN

In the morning, I bid farewell to my hosts. The plan was to ride to Glenorchy and maybe all the way to Kinloch. However, when I reached Mt Creighton, the wind was blowing really hard and followed by drizzles. Gone was the beautiful view of Lake Wakatipu. I hesitated for a while – to go or not to go? I checked the weather forecast and it said that its going to rain today. Haihhh. No luck again. I made up my mind to continue riding to my actual destination.

I stopped at Kawarau Gorge to witness kayakers paddling on the beautiful turquoise blue Kawarau River and to see people doing bungy jumping. I spent 1 hour here. It was fun to watch and to recall my very own adrenaline rush moment when doing bungy in 2002.





Then I continued, stopping again at the same fish n chips cafe in Cromwell for lunch.




I then rode to Lake Wanaka via Puzzling World, only stopping for pics. Sorry, I'm not a tourist, I dont do tourist things :)



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Lake Wanaka

After that I rode straight to my host’s house in Albert Town. Andi was at home when I arrived. He was an advrider and I found him in Advrider website. 


Andi invited me to go to his new house in Wanaka which was under renovation. I met his wife Ellen who was busy sewing curtains. On the walls of the house, I could see framed photographs from the couple’s past travels. The photos were taken by Ellen. She was very talented and her photos put “wowww” on my lips.

The couple was in a rush to rent the house for Christmas holidays. I helped them to fix the curtain and the bedspread. By late afternoon, we went back to their house in Albert Town.


20th Dec 2017, ALBERT TOWN

I rest another day here. My hosts went out to Queenstown to do some shopping for the new house. They invited me to come along but I rejected politely as I need to study my upcoming route. I promised them that I will cook for dinner today. We had dinner of nasi lemak with chicken rendang and anchovies sambal. They loved it. It was a simple yet lovely dinner at the couple’s patio. We exchanged stories about our rides. Andi and Ellen rode North and South America for 3 and a half years. Amazing, isnt it? After dinner, Andi helped me with my bike maintenance :)





21st Dec 2017, ALBERT TOWN - FRANZ JOSEF - HOKITIKA - LAKE MAHINAPUA

I said thanks to my hosts and left in the morning. I had a long way to go today and a few sightseeing stops to do. Not long after leaving Albert Town, I felt strong wind again especially at Lake Hawea. Black clouds started to accumulate in the sky and very soon, droplets of rainfall from above.

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Lake Hawea


I rode on Haast Pass Highway (route 6) heading north. My first stop was Fantail Falls (23m), located in Mt Aspiring National Park, but just next to the roadside. Even though its not so high, its much prettier than Purakaunui Falls which I’d seen the other day. I continued for another 6 kms and stopped again. I need to do a short walk to reach Thundercreek Falls (96m). It was beautiful and impressive to see the water flow from the cliff high above. The good thing about NZ was, even though its a pricey country, but the national parks are free so you can visit all the natural attractions (which had good facility and toilet) without having to pay a single cent.

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Fantail Falls

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Thundercreek Falls
It rained continuously for the whole day. I stopped again at Franz Josef for a hot chocolate and waited about 30 minutes for the rain to lessen. I didnt trek to the glaciers as I had seen it before. Besides, what can you view in this bad weather? 



I continued riding and passed lots of blue rivers. I didnt stop for pics because it was raining and all I had in mind was to reach my destination ASAP. After riding for 400kms, I reached Lake Mahinapua campground. All in all, I rode 8 hours in rain today, but Givi raincoat, top bag and soft cases on the bike didnt leak a drop. Excellent gears. 


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This bird stole my instant beverages




22 Dec 2017, LAKE MAHINAPUA - GREYMOUTH - LEWIS PASS - KAIKOURA

Another 400kms ride from Lake Mahinapua to Kaikoura via Lewis Pass today. The weather was lovely after the wet wet ride yesterday and the wind was tolerable. After Greymouth, I turned right to route 7 and started riding on Lewis Pass. Yes, for my NZ ride, I was zigzagging the country to get the best as much as I can. Lewis Pass was not as steep as most high mountain passes in other countries. As at Arthurs Pass the other day, this pass also offered a very unique and beautiful view. Its pretty barren and dry but I loved this kind of view.







I noticed that petrol was much more expensive in the South Island and the priciest I paid was at Lewis Pass, NZD2.35 p/l (RM7.05). After descending from the pass, I took the inland route 70 which was the epicenter of the Nov 2016 earthquake and was badly damaged. At the time of riding, this road opened only for temporary from Fri - Sun and shall be closed again after the holidays. While riding and witnessing traces of the quake, I tried to imagine how does a magnitude 7.8 quake felt like.


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Didnt expect I'm going to see llamas here. The last time I saw one was in Argentina



Kaikoura was my last minute destination. The reason why I came here was to see whales. Arriving at the small town, I headed straight to the center to refuel. However, my jaw dropped and I was so much at awe when looking at the sea in front of me. I had seen so many blue sea, oceans, rivers, lakes, but nothing...I repeat, nothing was as blue as this. It was so blue that I had no word to describe how beautiful it was. The tiredness of riding for 400kms gone in a snap of the fingers when looking at this kind of view. I drink in the sea view for a while before refueling, and then I headed straight to my host’s house which was a stone throw away from the waters.


Joan and Ray were friends of Heather and John. They were very nice and kind to me. They had a nice big and comfortable house. They took me to a pre-Christmas party at their friend’s place where I got to meet some bikers. Ray was a biker too during his younger days. After spending about 2 hours there, we went back home. We chatted over dinner.  They told me that a shake of 4 something at Richter scale just happened a day before I arrived. Euwwww....


23 Dec 2017, KAIKOURA

As the malay saying goes, “Manusia merancang, Dia menentukan...” (“Human plan but God determines”)

I came from far with high hopes to see whales but it was not materialized because one must pre-book way in advance for a whale-watching tour. I thought that I didnt need to book because the road to Kaikoura was only recently opened. Due to this, and since Christmas is approaching, my host suggested that I go for a dolphin tour instead. Since I’m already here, I agreed half-heartedly.



But my oh my...I have had a blast!! I had seen dolphins before but never as up close and as many as this time. There were not less than 50 wild dolphins showing off their acrobatic skills flip-flapping in the South Pacific waters. It was very entertaining. I didnt know where to look as they were around the vessel, either racing together or doing somersaults. This indeed was the highlight of my ride in NZ. 




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My best shot
And the thing which put tears in my eyes was when the supposed NZD100 tour was FOC for me because Joan worked at the tour company's cafe and Ray used to be the company's mechanic. I got a special treatment from the crew when I was allowed to sit on the upper level, next to the driver. My many thanks to Joan and Ray for the experience which I will never forget in my whole life.

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Joan and Ray
I was smiling from ear to ear when I walked back to my host’s house after the tour, and telling them what I had seen. I was like a very excited kid...HAHAHA. Joan gave me a fresh crayfish (lobster) which she caught using a special trap. She told me that the locals were allowed to catch this fish but up to a limited number daily (I forgot the exact number). I still had my coconut milk powder so I decided to cook amasak lemak cili api for it. It was difficult to shed the shells and one could cut their fingers if they were not careful enough as the shell was sharp.

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Crayfish in hot spicy coconut gravy
Around 5pm. my hosts took me for a drive to a viewpoint up the hill. It was so windy that I felt almost being blown away. The view of Kaikoura can be seen from up here.

Then they took me to the beach. They waited in the car and asked me to walk on the beach to find seals. I headed to the place where I saw many tourists around. I found the seals. It was good to watch them in their natural habitat. Unlike the seal colony in Cape Foulwind which can only be seen from a lookout deck, the seals here scattered everywhere on the beach. I can touch them if I want to, but of course I didnt do it as there were signs saying not to disturb them.



There were lots of seagulls here too. I found them cute, but Joan told me that they were a pest nowadays because the number increased by lots and were uncontrollable.

And as I had mentioned earlier, the water itself was sooo beautiful. At a certain time, the water has three different tones of blue. I must say that apart from the secluded beaches which I had seen which need some trekking to reach, Kaikoura beach was among the most beautiful in NZ, and you dont need to trek to enjoy its beauty. Do include this place in your list if you are visiting NZ.


I was being carried away with the beauty of this place that I didnt realize the high tide was coming very fast. I was quite far from the road where Ray and Joan were waiting in the car. I had to walk quickly in order not to be trapped in the waters. 

Before going home, my host showed me some ruined buildings due to the earthquake.


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Forgot the name of this trees but it was in full bloom when I was there
We returned home and watch a beautiful sunset from the window of their living room. Imagine having this view every single day? But they have a scary experience too. The 2016 earthquake. Listening to their stories sends shivers down my spine...




24th Dec 2017, KAIKOURA - NELSON

I felt sad to leave my wonderful hosts. I could see the same in Ray’s eyes as well. However, the journey must continue. I parted farewell with thanks to both of them.

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Posing at Joan's beautiful garden
Then I made my way north via route 1 to Blenheim. The road which was opened recently was still under heavy supervision. The speed limit for the first 40kms outside Kaikoura was 30 – 40kmh only. This enabled me to sink in the view and witnessed how much the earthquake impact on the area, especially the seabed which was raised by up to 2 meters.

The view along the way to Blenheim was beautiful. A bit dry but nice. The wind was disturbing me again. Haihh...From Blenheim, I took route 6 to Havelock and all the way back to Bill’s house in Nelson. Bill had asked me to stay at his place for Christmas as accommodations will be full and pricey everywhere. I accepted the invitation and was very happy to meet him and Cornish again.

By now, I had completed my ride in the South Island. I will spend a few days at Bill’s nice home before hitting North via the west coast. I told Bill that I'm craving for mussels. We managed to find some at the supermarket and I cooked the mussels in chili and oyster sauce.

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Musesls in chili and oyster sauce 
For the first time in my life, I tasted raw oyster which Bill bought. When eaten with squeezed lime juice, it tastes good, just like ceviche in the Latin countries.

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25th – 26th Dec 2017, NELSON

Its not uncommon that I'm abroad every Christmas. However, I had never experienced Christmas celebration in a home of those who celebrated it. I'm very lucky that this time, I stayed with Bill and Cornish in Nelson, so I get to experience Christmas celebration their style. On Christmas Eve last night, Bill brought me to the Cathedral Park where I get to see the locals and tourists singing Christmas carols, backed up by the Cathedral's orchestra.


On Christmas day itself, we went to Bill's sister's house for brunch. Jane made a delicious waffle which we ate with berries and Hokey Pokey ice cream. Mmmm....yummyyy. Then we had a croissant with butter and jam, served with coffee. At Jane's house, I also get to meet her beautiful adorable ragdoll cat, Beppe. How I missed my Cici so much (cryyyy)





Later in the evening, Jane joined us for dinner at Bill's house where Bill made a mouth-watering Greek style halal lamb roast served with potatoes, vege salad made by Cornish, rice, bread, and summer pudding for dessert. 

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It might looks scary but the taste? Mmmmm yummyyy

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Cornish, Bill and Jane
Thank you very much Bill, Cornish and Jane for my very first Christmas experience celebrating at a local’s home. I think I am putting on weight now :D


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Cooking briyani for my host




27th Dec 2017: Nelson - Picton

After saying goodbye to Bill and Cornish, I made my way to Picton. I took the same Queen Charlotte scenic drive. The view was magnificent. I loved riding on this road even though its narrow and winding.

I arrived the pier early. Its easy to do the check in to board the Inter Islander ferry. The ferry departed on time. I enjoyed the view until theres no more isles to see when the ferry entered Cook Strait. The crew announced that the swell will be 3 meters at minimum. Its true and I started to feel a bit dizzy. So I decided to take a nap. By the time I woke up, the sea already calmed as the ferry was nearing Wellington. I get down to my bike and get ready to leave the ferry.








NEW ZEALAND PART 4: NORTH ISLAND (WELLINGTON - WHANGANUI - TAUPO - ROTORUA - AUCKLAND)

27th Dec 2017: WELLINGTON - WHANGANUI

As soon as I entered highway 1, the road was jammed packed with vehicles. Everyone is going on vacation. Bill had warned me about this. It was a hot day today and after no movement after 15 minutes, I started to feel tense. However, I had no choice as this is the rule here. Even motorbikes had to queue just like other vehicles, but at least they had a roof above their head and air-conditioned to cool them. Unlike bikers, we had nothing to protect us from the sun.



The vehicles finally moved but at a very slow pace. This continued for the first 3 hours. I didnt even cover half of my journey for today yet. I became very restless, so did other bikers. When one started to ride on shoulder lane, I saw the others did the same, so I followed them as well. I managed to ride faster. The traffic lessened at Levin and I sped as fast as I could. Luckily theres no traffic police or else I might get a ticket for speeding. It took me 5 hours from Wellington to reach my destination, Whanganui even though the distance was only 190kms.

The small charming town on Whanganui was quiet. Only a few traffic on the road. Perhaps because today is Boxing Day. I met a guy who wanted to host me. His name was Damon. I was introduced to her Maori wife, Wendy. Damon was a policeman and they lived in a house on a hill overlooking the nice view of Whanganui River. Damon worked night shift so only Wendy was at home and she accompanied me during dinner. She was so sweet and friendly and we talked mostly about Maori culture. Wendy told me that its a good option not to stay at a marae as I had planned earlier because it had lots of ancestor spirits which can easily enter a human body. Euwww... thank god I didnt opt for marae stay.

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Wendy, Damon and I

28th Dec 2017: WHANGANUI - TONGARIRO NP - TAUPO

I only had a chance to talk to Damon this morning. He gave me route advises as there were few options to Taupo, my destination for today. Wendy gave me some fruits for lunch. After thanking the sweet young couple, I rode on route 4 which was very scenic and much quieter compared to the national highway. However, there were lots of roads washed out due to landslides and I need to ride with caution on the narrow winding road. It was raining on and off and I felt very cold. So I had to put on my heated gloves and I felt much better after that.

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Riding on quiet road always gv me a piece of mind
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The funny lil tree caught my eyes
 The wind was pretty strong when I crossed Tongariro National Park on route 47 but fortunately it was from behind me, so I got a tailwind instead. These few days, the country experienced strong wind due to the southern wind blowing. I stopped for fuel at Turangi and met some local lady bikers. Then I proceeded to Taupo, stopping for a while at Taupo Lake (the biggest lake in NZ) to enjoy the breeze. Since this is a volcanic lake, the beach sand was greyish black in colour.

I checked in at Taupo Rainbow Lodge. I will be staying here for 2 nights (NZD26 per night). This was a very popular place and was fully booked when I was there. I made friends with three solo travelers, Tonya (Russian), Luca (Italian) and Fahad (Arabian) and we agreed to go sightseeing together tomorrow.

29th Dec 2017: TAUPO

We hopped in Fahad’s car around 10am and drove to Huka Falls. The falls were as beautiful as 15 years ago. We spent some time here watching the jet boaters. Later we trekked for 1:30hrs along the river. There were too many tourists as it was still holiday time for the locals.




After that, we drove to Crater of the Moon volcanic area. The entrance fee was NZD8 which well worth the price. We trekked for 1 hour in this area watching the mud pools and the steams coming out from the ground. It was impressive but very smelly.

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The trek at Crater of the Moon
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You can see steams everywhere

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My treeking mates, Tonya, Luca and Fahad
Finally we drove back to Taupo and just lazed by the lake to watch black ducks and swans swimming. It was fun to watch them. We chatted and exchanged travel stories among us.
Later in the evening, I went to Countdown supermarket to buy chocolates to take home. To my delight, there were mussels sold here!!! I was very happy. I bought some and feasted myself with sweet n sour mussels for dinner. Mmmmm...



30th Dec 2017: TAUPO - ROTORUA

It was a short ride today to Rotorua via route 1. There were still lots of cars on the road but not as bad as the other day. The weather was fine, the road was good and no disturbing wind today. I was hosted by Tiana, a former lady biker and also John’s ex. Her house was near Lake Rotorua. After resting for a while, she and her boyfriend, Martyn brought me sightseeing.

I told them that I had always wanted to see a marae but never got a chance. The marae in Whanganui was closed when I stopped to visit a few days ago. What is a marae? Marae is the focal point of Maori communities thru-out NZ. Its the meeting ground in a complex of carved buildings which belongs to a tribe (iwi), subtribe (hapu) and family (whanau). Last time, travelers can walk in and stay at a marae but these days its only for big gatherings such as weddings and funerals. Its interesting to see the beautiful decoration of the marae. 

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Martyh standing in front of a marae

The couple also took me to a burial ground at an evangelical church. Whats interesting here was the body of the dead was above the ground, not underground. Why was that so? Because Rotorua was a thermal land and the underground was very hot and burning. You can see steams coming out from the ground at many places here.

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Evangelical church and the burial ground
After that the couple took me for early dinner at a Turkish restaurant in the town of Rotorua. Martyn’s daughter, Bronwen joined us. I had a rice meal with mixed chicken and lamb grill. It was delicious. We had baklava for dessert. When was the last time I ate baklava? At one of Fida’s AMAC party in Ankara I guess.


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Generous Malaysians putting their Ringgits on the board :)
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If you happen to see my note in this restaurant, plz take a picture and send it to me :)
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Bronwen, Martyn, Tiana and I
We then went to Government Garden. I had been here before too but the building looks sobeautiful today since the sun was shining brightly and the sky was so blue.

Our last destination was Kuirau Park to see the boiling pools and mud. The smell of sulfur dominated the area.



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Boiling mud pool
Thanks Tiana and Martyn for being my bestest tour guides. Not only I managed to see the attractions here but also I get to know the history as well. 


31st Dec 2017: ROTORUA - HAMILTON - AUCKLAND

Before leaving this morning, Martyn gave me a drawing book which he published as a souvenir. That was so sweet of him. 


I said goodbye to both of them and rode on route 5 – 1 to Hamilton. Its not difficult to find #MelayuNZ’s house, owned by Hj Ruslan. He was the brother of my Georgian friend, Rose Aini.  This was the one and only Malay house which I visited during my entire NZ ride. Even though I didnt know them, I was so happy to meet a Malay family and talked in my native language again. Mdm Azizah made delicious noodles in a special soup. We talked about lots of things. This family also made their house as an accommodation for Malaysian people who visited NZ.


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Dap...dap...dapppppp
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Hj Ruslan on the far right and his wife, Mdm Azizah is the one next tome wearing white hijab
After spending about 1:30 hours, I had to make a move. I said thanks to them and rode to Auckland. There were more cars on the road but still tolerable. I crossed the long bridge which had a fascinating view of yachts. It was easy to find my brother and sister’s house. John and Heather had been waiting for my arrival. I hugged them. It was like going back home. 


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Its good to be 'home'
I had promised them that I will cook for dinner, so after sorting out my things from the bike, I went to work inside the newly painted bright red kitchen. Heather had bought halal lamb meat. As promised, I made lamb briyani with lamb curry and chicken in tomato sauce. We had a good time chatting and eating as I told them my NZ riding stories.







1st Jan 2018: AUCKLAND

It was raining on and off on my last day in Auckland which was also the New Year 2018.

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Heather feeding the birds
 However, my lovely hosts, John and Heather brought me sightseeing around the city of sails in their bright red FUN and GO sports car. We went to the wharf to see fancy yachts which docked there. I was told the price of the yachts started from NZD25k to millions. I also managed to see a steamship and a float plane.


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I rode on this bridge the other day
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Sky Tower in the background

Later we went to One Tree Hill to see a monument. View of Auckland city can be seen from above the hill. We also visited a park nearby.





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If you happen to spot the "FUN N GO" red sports car, thats my brother and sister :)
Then, it was time to say goodbye. The couple sent me to the airport. It was hard to part with them. I hugged Heather a looongg time. Both of them were like my brother and sister. Same goes to Bill and Cornish in Nelson, Ray and Joan in Kaikoura, Tiana and Martyn in Rotorua and Mary and Alex in Mosgiel. I felt so sad to leave. Heather assured me that the next time if I come again, I will have a home in Auckland.





Thank you very much to all for the warmth, love, hospitality, and kindness during my ride in NZ. God willing, we shall meet again.

Goodbye NZ. Goodbye, all. The ride had ended but the memory remained will be cherished forever...
From cape to cape
From bay to bay
From northernmost to southernmost
From blue oceans to desert drive to snow peak mountains
Four major passes (Arthur Pass, Lewis Pass, Haast Pass and Lindys Pass)
7500kms done

Until the next ride.....


AFRICAN RIDE PART 1 - SOUTH AFRICA

AFRICA... 

Why Africa this time? What makes me want to ride at this part of the world?

The answer is very easy. My long semester holidays are from Nov – Dec. Its going to be winter in the northern hemisphere. It left me with only the southern hemisphere to venture. I had ridden in 5 continents already, minus Africa and Antarctica. So now its time to give Africa a go.

You are not scared to ride in Africa, Anita?

This is the most frequently asked question which was thrown to me. Well, a little scared, I must confess. However, I had seen other female adventure riders did it. Some rode with their partner, some did it solo. And all of them survived. So why dont I try? If others can do it, so can I :)

I was very busy (as alwayssss) and didn’t do much research for this ride. I contacted Uwe, a Namibian born advrider, and asked his advice regarding the route and places to visit. My Msian friend, Sam, who had resided in Cape Town for 20 years and had since long asked me to come over, also helped me with getting contacts. For my bike shipment and clearance, I settled with an agent, Andy Connell, as it will be a lot easier and hassle-free, rather than to save a few bucks but ended up with lots of headaches.

For this ride, I decided to use my trusty Yamaha FZ150 which I named GD. Its the same bike I used for my Global Dream Ride. Why did I use this bike when I had other options such as my Honda CB500X or my BMW F700GS? There are a few reasons and the biggest issue is the carnet deposit. I must have a carnet to enable me to take the bike into South Africa, and the more expensive the market value for the bike is, the more expensive the carnet deposit will be. If I were to bring my GS into Africa, carnet itself will cost me RM50k as the bike is still very new. Other reasons which my Yamaha FZ150 top my list of preferences are, it is a fuel safe motorbike, the maintenance cost is lower, spare parts will be easier to find, its lighter compared to the other bikes I owned and due to the bad road condition and riding solo, a lighter bike will be a much wiser choice.

I contacted Hong Leong Yamaha Motor to ask for some support. They provided me with a full service and parts change for my GD which then made the bike new again. Thank you Mr. Lee Chan Wee for all yr help and all the techs at the HQ and the Ipoh branch who had worked on GD.


Givi, the brand I’m representing, equipped my bike and myself with all the things needed for this ride. Most of the stuff came from Givi Italy, and a little bit from Givi Malaysia. GD got a new pair of spotlights, a pair of jerrycans, an airflow adjustable windshield, phone holder, GPS holder, base plate and pannier rack, stopper light, tool case, tool bag, spider netting, tubeless tire repair kit and an exhaust pipe protector. Meanwhile, for myself, I got Givi waterproof bags (80L, 40L and 30L), pouch, thermos and locks. Beside those stuff, I also received items from Hevik (Givi’s sister brand) such as a pair of Hevik riding suit, Hevik technical layer, Hevik summer and winter gloves, and a neck warmer. TQVM Givi and Hevik for the never-ending support.




Accessories installation and custom add-ons for the bike were prepared by Jimmy from MyBikerz (013-2121900) and the bike’s engine final touch was done by my mechanic, Faiesal.


Other in-kind sponsorship was outdoor gears given by Eiger Adventure (a very famous outdoor brand from Indonesia). I got myself a subzero sleeping bag, an air mattress, a pair of trekking boots, a pair of outdoor sandals, wool gloves, wool socks, two pieces of trekking pants, a fleece windbreaker, sunglasses, two outdoor watches, a solar water bucket and Tshirts.



Mr. Ti from Motul gave me Zeneous ZN33 offroad tires for my bike. Medications were given by sis Kam from True Meds Pharmacy (I need malaria tablets this time, out of other normal items) and two boxes of instant Sharifah’s Food were given by sis Suzaila. TQVM everyone for the support.




For my African Ride, I made a loop, starting from Cape Town (South Africa), to Namibia – Botswana – Zimbabwe – Zambia – back to Zimbabwe – back to Botswana – back to South Africa – Lesotho – and back to South Africa for the third time. I finished my ride in Cape Town and the bike was stored here until I return in Nov 2019 to continue exploring this unique continent.


SOUTH AFRICA
I arrived at Cape Town International Airport on 22nd Nov 2018 after a total journey of 30 hours since I left my house in Ipoh. The Ethiopian Airlines flight which I flew with made a brief stop at Addis Ababa. I was pretty exhausted when I arrived CT and was relieved that my dear friend, Sam, offered to fetch me at the airport. CT airport is not big, but it took 1 hour for us to meet. HAHAHA, let that be our story to cherish.


My 1st impression of this city was....the winddddd. It was blowing hard. Sam said that its windier than normal today, but this is not the strongest yet. Urghhh... I was worried to think of how I'm going to manage riding my lil bike here. Sam took me to his house where I met his wife Amina, daughter Nurmah and son, Ahmed. Amina is a great cook. All her cookings were delicious. I felt very much welcomed by this family.


The next day, my agent, Andy came and took me to meet Bevan, the forwarding agent. My carnet and other details were taken. I was told that the vessel which carried my bike will arrive later than scheduled due to the strong wind. Auww...This is the risk that you have to take when shipping your bike.

While waiting for my bike, Sam brought me for sightseeing in and around Cape Town. Sam rode his Honda Shadow bike whilst I rode his 1969 Royal Enfield. This is the first time I tried this classic bike. It was heavy and sturdy, and not affected by the strong wind at all even though I could feel the heavy wind slapping my chest. I managed to visit the icon of Cape Town, Table Mountain. It indeed looked like a table with its flat top. Theres a cable car going to the top (R290), but I didnt do tourist things. Especially when its pricey. HAHAHA...  So, I just enjoyed the view of the Atlantic Ocean and the cape from the viewpoint. We also went to Signal Hill where I could see many locals picnicking.




Our next stop was Bo Kaap, a nice colourful Malay Quarter which had existed here since 300 years ago. I loved the bright and pastel colours of the houses and buildings. Sam told me that some elderly who lived here can still speak Malay. We chatted with a senior Malay Cape guy, unfortunately he couldnt speak our mother tongue.

Then Sam and I rode to Hout Bay via Misty Cliff. We enjoyed a very delicious snoek fish n chips meal at Sam’s favourite cafe while viewing the sunset.


The next day, Sam brought me to Cape Peninsula. It was approximately 60 km from Sam’s house which took us about 1 hour to ride due to some congestions at Simons Town. The entrance fee was R303. Upon reaching Cape Point, I was surprised to learn that I need to pay again to take a funicular to the lighthouse. Normally at any parts of the world, you only paid once to enter any national parks. I found that attraction fees anywhere in Cape Town were pretty expensive. However, the rock formation, landscape, and the view of the blue South Atlantic Ocean crashing huge waves to the cliff down below were a spectacular sight.


  Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.


Then we rode to the nearby Cape of Good Hope. I saw three big antelopes up the hill while on the way, but couldnt manage to take any pic as I need to trail behind Sam’s bike. Cape of Good Hope (Tanjung Harapan) was first discovered by a Portuguese ship captain, Bartholomew Dias in 1488. This place was in my bucket list since I was little, but it was only now that I managed to be here. There were too many people as it was Saturday, so I couldnt pose at the signboard with the bike. However, I met a Malaysian guy who had been here for an outbound course. The guy was so excited to meet me. HAHAHA...




After that, we rode to Muizenberg, not taking the coastal way but Sam guided me through an inland route passing some hills which offered beautiful bird's eye view of the area. We rested for a while at Muizenberg beach and chatted with the friendly locals. The colourful dress changing huts were the attraction here, besides the lovely beach.




One thing which amazed me the most here was the women. Almost all of them, young or old have big boobs and butt. How did they get it so big and the butt is so round? Genetic? Cosmetic? Both? Through my reading, I found out that it is the women’s pride as the bigger their assets are, the more fertile they were. Interesting :)

During my stay here, I also managed to meet a local advrider, Anwar Omar. He helped to bring me to ECU office to make payment for my bike’s shipping. The total shipping fee plus all fees at Port Klang, Cape Town port and the wooden crate for the bike were USD1758.


My bike had arrived Cape Town port, but due to the strong wind, unloading the bike from the vessel to the jetty was delayed. I’m getting very impatience. I was very lucky that I stayed at Sam’s place, or else I would be cursing the delay as it jeopardized my travel itinerary. To kill the time, Sam took me for a ride to Cape Town waterfront. Our first stop was the Castle of Good Hope which was a bastion fort built in the 17th century. The castle was so-so but what impressed me more was the view of the clouds which all of a sudden, came down from the sky. The clouds were so low that it touched the roof of the castle. Then we went to the waterfront to enjoy free acapella entertainment by the locals.




Finally, Andy my agent told me that my bike was ready to be cleared. Sam drove me to ICS – Intermodal Cargo Solutions. We waited for Andy to arrive. After some documentation which took about 2 hours, I was taken to the warehouse where GD, my bike was kept inside its crate. How relieved I was to reunite with my loving bike. I missed him so very badly. The guys helped to uncrate the box and Sam helped to get me some fuel. The battery then connected and I started the engine. Vroooommmm.....the engine came alive. Yeaayyyy!!!



30th Nov 2019: Cape Town – Springbok (N7, 590 km)

I must do 590 km today to cover back the lost days due to the vessel delay. At 8am, I said goodbye and thanks to my lovely hosts, Sam and Amina. Sam brought me to a petrol station for me to fill up GD’s tank. He was so kind as to pay for the fuel and gave me some pocket money. May Allah paid back his kindness to me.
Sam then guided me to exit CT. However, the road was so heavy with traffic as it was the morning rush hour. After 5 km of a very slow ride trailing behind Sam’s car, I overtook him and signaled to him that I will be fine. I knew that Sam was worried about my safety, especially because I’m riding solo. He had been repeating his concern many times since the first day I’m here. I was informed that prior to my arrival, a local lady rider was robbed and shot to death by the roadside.

The road in South Africa is awesome. The signboards are very clear and the driving attitude is to be praised. Very disciplined drivers and I felt no harm at all riding here. The ride to exit CT was slow for about 20 km. After that, the road became deserted and I had a smooth ride. The first part of my ride offered dried grassland view which reminded me of Iran. Then I passed some beautiful green vineyards.

After that, I had to ride on rolling hills. There were lots of ascends and descends and I encountered headwind for the first 400 km. Hence my small powered bike took a longer time as it cant go fast ascending and fighting headwind at the same time. GD consumed more fuel due to this.


It was a very hot day today and I became sooo exhausted. I only stopped for a brief 20 mins after riding for 5 continuous hours, and thats because GD needed fuel.

The view of the remaining journey changed to pre-desert with barren mountain which reminded me of Utah/Arizona in the States.
I arrived Springbok after riding for 9 hours and rode straight to the Caravan Park. I was too tired to pitch my tent, so I opted for a rondavel accommodation which cost me R200. The place was quite nice with a clean shared ablution. The sunset view here was pretty awesome too. However, I didnt sleep well because it was very hot. Well, this is Africa, what do you expect, Anita?







AFRICAN RIDE: PART 2 - NAMIBIA

1st Dec 2019: Springbok – Vioolsdrift/Noordoewer – Rosh Pinah – Aus (N7 – C13, 462 km)

It was pretty cold when I made my way to the RSA – Namibian border via N7 in the wee hours. The sun was rising and its shine cast long shadows of me and GD on the deserted road but with very awesome barren mountain view. The beautiful and dramatically geology change at the last few km as I approached the border blew my mind away. I loved this feeling. A feeling which I had longed for since my last long ride in New Zealand a year ago. Its just me, my bike, the quiet road, and the beautiful view...and nothing else matters...

I approached a yellow building upon reaching the border. After parking GD at the parking lot, I went to counter 1 (immigration) to stamp my passport. Then I was ushered to counter 3 (police) to write my details in a log book. Next was counter 2 (customs) to exit stamp my carnet. I checked my carnet carefully to make sure that all details were written correctly and signed. This is very important as any unsigned section will result in a loss of $$ deposit. All the counters (1, 2 and 3) were in the same building. 15 mins here and I’m done. Its very easy and the officers were friendly.



Then I get on my bike and crossed the bridge. The view was beautiful and I couldnt help but to stop for pics.



I was fooled by the building right after the bridge, thinking that it was the immigration and customs office, but its not. The office was actually 800 m from the bridge. I saw the ‘Welcome to Rep Of Namibia’ signboard and again stop for pics.



There were quite many people at the Namibian border post. As in RSA, the officers here were friendly too. I need to fill up an arrival form, stamped my passport, then go to the counter to pay road fund. The fee for motorbike is NAD188. I must fill up the road fund form first, then pay the money, and thats it. I didnt have to do customs declaration for my vehicle at all. Carnet was not needed as well. 30 mins here and I’m done. However, I lingered a while as I was being interviewed by the many admirers here (including the officers) who were amazed to see a woman riding solo.

I rode for another 2 km and reached Engen fuel station. Fuel was sold at $14.55 (approximately USD1), slightly cheaper than in RSA. I purchased a Namibian sim card for NAD10 + NAD40 (1 gig data) for 1-week usage. English is Namibian official language besides Afrikaans (same as RSA), so communication was easy.

As suggested by Uwe, I took C13 route after the fuel station. The view of the barren mountains along the way to Aussenker was very nice. At times, I felt as if I was in Chile. Despite the barren land, there were green vineyard fields which I saw. Workers, loaded at the back of a lorry were transported from their village to the field. Their houses at the village were mainly made from zinc and sticks tied together, and very small.



The paved road finished very soon and was replaced by dirt road along beautiful Orange (but blue) River. 


It was indeed a breathtaking ride on C13. 100 km on dirt (sometimes corrugated) and certain stretches on gravels which I can do 60 - 80kmh.
I just can't get enough of this dirt road. It was sooo beautiful. I took 2 hours to complete this stretch due to stopping too many time for pics.





It was another hot day and I almost passed out by the time I reached Rosh Pinah. Hence, I took 45 minutes at a fuel station to rest. Then I continued for another 170 km on paved and had to fight the side wind. It was a very exhausting ride. Luckily I managed to see some big ostriches who put a smile on my face. Their running act was so funny. I also saw wild horses and oryx, but all were too shy to pose for my cam.

In total, I rode 462 km from Springbok to Aus in 11 hours under the blazing heat and not so friendly wind. I was dead tired by the time I reached my destination. I had no more energy to pitch my tent so I had to opt for a single A/C room at Namib Garage, NAD350 (after bargaining).


2nd Dec 2019: Aus – Keetmanshoop – Mariental – Windhoek (B1, 750km)

I felt lazy to ride today, but I had to force myself to get up from the bed. I hit the road at 8am and very soon, I turned left on C13. The plan is to go to Sesriem. I rode slowly on the sandy road while watching ostriches. After 3 km, the ride became tough as there were lots of sand ridges. I didnt have the skill to ride on soft sands like this. When the sands became thicker, I had to tiptoe to make sure that I didnt drop my bike. After 1 hour of super slow riding, I only managed to cover 20km. It was 9am and the temperature was already 40’C!!!




I began to boil underneath my riding gear. There was no shelter and all around me were sands. The road was so so deserted. For the past hour, I didnt meet a single soul as yet. It is still a looongg looongg way to Sesriem. The heat at 9 am was already killing me. I wonder how hot it would be at noon? To make matters worse, there were lots of annoying insects (flies?) buzzing around me. Urghhh!!!




I stopped my bike and reconsider the idea of going to Sesriem. Uwe had told me that the dirt road in Namibia could be good or bad, depending on when the last time it was scrapped. Obviously, this road had not been scrape for quite some time. The sun was getting hotter and I was sweating profusely. I started to feel dizzy and short of breath. I knew very well the meaning of these symptoms. The memory of getting hit by heat stroke and fainted when I was riding in Tajikistan way back in 2013 was still fresh in my mind. I need to make a fast decision now.




Should I proceed? Or should I turn back? Its not wise to take the risk under this heat in this deserted and shelterless place. If the temperature is mild, I will surely brave the sands, but with this temperature? Who is going to help me if I faint? I dont want to dehydrate and die in this desert.


In the end, I made up my mind and turned back.

Another 20 km on the soft sands resulted in 2 hours wasted since I started this morning. My new destination now is Windhoek, the capital of Namibia. Its a long way to Windhoek, I wonder if its doable? No choice, I had to try. Worst-case scenario, if I cant make it to Windhoek, I’ll find a place to stay at one of the towns before it got dark.

The paved road on B1 was in good condition, but as usual, its very quiet. The view was filled with bushes, small trees and beautiful sandy mountain. Some of the trees were very unique. So did the boulders on a certain stretch of the road.



I refuel at Keetmanshop and continued riding. The road quality dropped and theres no view to feast my eyes anymore. It was a very boring ride. I only saw some wild horses on the sandy fields once. Later in the afternoon, I started to feel some wind and decided to stop for lunch at Mariental. I pulled over at a rest area. My butt was so sore and my hands were numb after the long ride without taking a break at all. It was difficult for me to get down and I almost dropped my bike due to exhaustion!!

While enjoying my packed lunch of rice and SF sambal, I saw a barefooted boy running towards me. He sat on the opposite bench and looked at me with his sad eyes. I fully understood what he meant, but I almost finished my food at that time. After a while, the boy started to dig into the garbage bin. He found a bottle of unfinished Coke and drank it. He continued digging and later found a milk box. He shook the almost empty box and tore it to enable him to lick the remaining milk. I was witnessing all this as if watching a drama shown on TV. How my heart fell for this boy. Especially when he looked at me again and asked, “Mem, can you buy me some food?”

I really couldnt hold my tears anymore, but I didnt want to cry in front of him. I hurriedly put on my helmet, opened my top box, grabbed a packet of biscuit and some money and shoved it into the boy’s hand. The boy ran quickly to another small kid, whom I believed his brother. They shared the biscuit. I get on my bike, rode to the kids for a quick photo and hurriedly left. Why did I leave so fast? Because this is Africa. The good deed you did can put you in danger if bad people notice you give money to the poor, as they will think that you are a rich person.

I continued riding with tears streaming down my cheek recalling what I had just seen. I’m sure this wont be the first and the last drama that I’m going to witness here in Africa.



It was a struggle to reach Windhoek. The wind, the long straight road, the heat...my lips were cracking all over and felt very painful. However, I cant miss the opportunity to pose in front of ‘Tropic of Capricorn’ signboard which was situated approximately 110 km before Windhoek. There are 10 TOC signs @ monuments in this world and this one is the 2nd TOC for me, after the first one in Antofagasta, Chile.



After that, it was a sprint to reach Windhoek. The sun was coming down fast and I was racing like crazy on the hilly road. Finally, I made it to Windhoek after 15 hours of riding. A new personal record set. I was so so exhausted, only God knows. I rode straight to Chameleon Backpackers which I had saved the location on my phone. Unfortunately, there was no availability here. Not even a space to pitch my tent. I was so tired I felt like crying. The owner suggested that I try my luck at Unite Backpackers, about 3 km away. It was already dark when I reached this hostel, but thank god, I managed to get a bed here. NAD170 with breakfast, cheaper than camp fee at Chameleon, and the best part, I didnt have to pitch my tent.


3rd Dec 2019: Windhoek (Rest Day)

The moment I woke up, I straight away recalled what had happened last night and hurriedly went out to check on my bike. Last midnight, when I was about to retire to my room, I heard someone knocking the kitchen’s window. There was this guy, claiming that he stayed at this hostel but he couldnt enter as the front door was already locked. He asked me to open the door for him so that he could enter. Hesitating, I asked him for proof that he stayed here and he showed his room key. I opened the front door and noticed that he had some friends (outsiders) with him, and the front gate was wide open. As the guy was drunk, I reminded him to make sure he will lock the front gate as my bike was parked at the porch. All of a sudden, the guy was angry at me, cursing and accusing I only cared about my bike, and as if he didnt care about other vehicles which were also parked there. Worried about my safety, I retired to my room, but cant free my mind from thinking about my bike. Fortunately, GD was still there this morning and untouched. What a relief.

While having my free complimentary breakfast, I asked the guy whom I spoke to last night about the possibility to visit Sesriem and Sossusvlei with him. Yesterday, he had been promoting his service as a freelance driver and guide. He showed me pics in his phone of travelers whom he had taken before. He also showed me reviews written by the travelers about him. I was interested, but I didnt have enough money to pay him. It was very expensive to get a private tour as such. The cheaper tour organized by the local hostels in Windhoek didnt depart today. I was hoping that someone will show up and can share the cost with me. The guy assured me not to worry, someone will surely show up, he said.

After breakfast, I rode to the Malaysian Embassy which was about 4 km from the hostel. I was greeted by Mr. Aki whom I had notified earlier about my arrival. He ushered me to the Ambassador’s room, HE Hishamuddin Ibrahim, who is a very friendly person. We talked for about 30 minutes, then I had to excuse myself since I’m still hoping to go to Sesriem today.



Returning to the hostel, the guy was still there. No luck as yet, he said. I waited until 2 pm hoping that someone will show up and share the tour cost with me. Suddenly the guy told me that he got something else to do and couldnt take me, even if someone shows up. I was like, WHATTT? I had been wasting my time waiting. I should have gone to the tourist info center and checked my luck there. Haaihhhh...

Its too late now. I contacted Mr. Aki who later told me that the Ambassador invited me to stay at his residence. I accepted the invitation happily and waited for Mr Aki to fetch me. I trailed behind his car and was taken to the residence. I was greeted by the Ambassador’s wife, Madam Ida Alina, a very sweet and kind lady. She was busy cooking in the kitchen when I arrived. I was showed the guest room in the nice big house. The room was big and very comfy.

We had a sumptuous dinner that night. Mr. Aki and Ashraf, the Ambassador’s son joined us too. The menu was tempoyak daun kayu, asam pedas ikan, fried chicken and sambal belacan. Madam Ida is a great cook. I went to bed with a full stomach. Thanks to my host.


4 – 5th Dec 2019: Windhoek – Swakopmund – Windhoek (B1 – B2 – B1, 720 km)

After a delicious breakfast of nasi lemak and donut, I said a temporary goodbye to my wonderful hosts and made my way to Swakopmund, a resort town at the west Namibian coast.

The distance from Windhoek to Swakopmund is approximately 360 km on Highway B1 and B2. As usual, the road, even its a highway, was always deserted. There were a few roadblocks along the highway though.

Nearing Swakopmund, high rising dunes came into view. I was like...wowww. It was impressive. I checked in at Salty jackal Backpackers (NAD200) and after resting for a while, I took a stroll along the beach. There were people swimming in the blue Atlantic Ocean. Arent they cold?





This small town had lots of cafes and museums, a casino and some pastel coloured buildings.





After that, I headed to Dune 7 via D route. The road was partly under construction. I could see more dunes by taking this road. It was amazing, especially with the sun going down which cast long shadows of the dunes. I arrived at Dune 7 which was the highest dune in Namibia, about 383 m in height. Some people climbed up the dune, but not me. I’m too lazy. HAHAHA...





I took B2 route via Walvis Bay to return to Swakopmund. It was already sunset so I cant explore the bay which was famed with its flamingoes.

I returned to Windhoek the next day taking the same way back. Upon arriving at Windhoek, I was met by Mr. Aki at the city outskirt. He took me to Levi’s boutique at Grove Mall as I wanted to buy a new pair of jeans. I seldom do shopping when traveling, but due to an invitation, this time I had to. Upon knowing that tomorrow is my birthday, Mr. Aki paid for the jeans and treated me at Seattle Coffee. He’s so nice and very gentleman.


Later we returned to the Ambassador’s residence. Dinner was fabulous with chicken curry, fried mixed vege, sambal and fruits on the menu. We chatted while eating. After washing my hand after dinner, I was surprised to see a cake on the table.  Madam Ida asked me to sit down. I was confused until they sang me a Happy Birthday song. OMG!!! I felt like crying. How did she know that tomorrow is my birthday? I was deeply touched by this family’s kindness. TQVM Ambassador, Madam Ida, and Ashraf for celebrating my 51st bday here at the residence.


Image may be NSFW.
Clik here to view.
Madam Ida bake this cake

6th Dec 2019: Windhoek – Kamanjab (B1 – C40, 506 km)
Its my 51st birthday today. As I was packing my things on the bike, Madam Ida noticed some oil on the floor where GD was parked. She asked me what was it? Goshh, I had no idea but definitely, it came from the bike. I was worried but thankful that the leakage was noticed before I hit the road. I made a video call to Faiesal, my mechanic and contacted Mr. Lee from HLYM to ask for Yamaha contact in Windhoek. Faiesal suspected that the oil came from the gear shaft after I told him that I dropped the bike the other day at the TOC sign due to strong wind.

Ambassador, Madam Ida and the embassy staff made a flag off ceremony at the residence. Then, Mr. Aki led me to Yamaha Windhoek. The mechanics checked GD and confirmed that the oil seal at the gear shaft was leaking the oil. Unfortunately, since Yamaha FZ150 was not sold in Windhoek, they didnt have the spare part, so we had to make do with a band from other Yamaha bike which matched the oil seal. Well, as long it did its job, its fine with me. My signal light which was not functioning was also sorted out. The repair fee was NAD117, and again, Mr. Aki insisted to pay. He gave me one condition though. I must take him riding one fine day. HAHAHA. You’re so cute. TQVM.



It was already noon when I made my way up north on B1 – C40. The road was good and deserted. The wind was tolerable and the sky was blue with some scattered clouds. I started to see wildlife on C40. Among that I managed to see (but not a chance to capture them in my cam) were antelopes, wild boars (lots of them), and birds. I saw lots of anthills too. Some were as tall as a single storey house. It was very fascinating.



Even though it was tiring as I need to cover a huge distance with only 1 short break to refuel and ate my packed lunch given by Madam Ida, it was indeed an enjoyable ride. I reached Kamanjab just before sunset. After refueling at the small town, I searched for a place to sleep. I found a campsite and so happened that since the owner is a biker, I get to camp for free. Alhamdulillah. Not just that, I got a special visitor too – two big ostriches :)






7th Dec 2019: Kamanjab – Opuwo (C35 – C41, 270 km)

I made a move at 9.40am. Its a leisure ride as the distance was near. The road was as usual, deserted. I saw some giraffes near Etosha National Park. It was hard to spot them in the beginning because they looked just like the trees. I only noticed they were giraffes when the ‘trees’ moved. HAHAHA...





While I was busying myself with the cam, a car stopped by the roadside. The driver questioned why am I taking pics there? He asked why I’m using a selfie stick? I didnt like the way he asked me as if I’m doing something wrong. Then I remembered Sam’s advise to not stopping by the roadside and never entertain strangers because you didnt know their intention. I hurriedly leave the place.
It was blazing hot as I continued riding to Opuwo. I can still bear the heat,but the most dangerous to me was the spiral wind. There were lots of spiral wind in Namibia as this country was covered by desert. From far I could see the wind building up and spiraling the sands, so I would normally wait for it to pass before I continue riding. Its so amazing to watch.

However this time, as I’m riding along the edge of the national park which had more vegetations, I didnt see any spiral wind nor do I feel the wind. But all of a sudden, while riding, swooooshhh and my bike made an 'S' which meant that I had accidentally entered the twister. I almost lost control of the bike. That was scary.

It took me 4 hours to reach my destination. There was a roadblock nearing the town and I made a mistake of not stopping since I didnt see anyone there. I only slowed down and then continued riding, only to hear a loud whistle and a shout asking me to turn back. Damn, I’m finished!!! Thats what I thought to myself. I turned back and played my charm as usual. I apologized to the officer in charge. He was pretty strict but after I told him that I’m doing Africa on my bike, he softened. He advised me to be careful next time and I must stop at every roadblock, even if theres no one there. Then only I realized that most of the police were taking shelter under the trees to avoid the heat and was a bit hidden from the road. Okay, lesson learned.

I refueled at the one and only fuel station in town and was swarmed by the local Himba women, offering their goods which were mainly bead necklaces and bracelets. The women, some topless, some wearing bras, and some carrying their babies in a sarong behind their back, persuaded me to buy their stuff. I rejected politely.

While waiting for my turn to refuel, I scanned my surrounding and got pretty excited. This was the reason why I rode all the way from south to the north of Namibia, almost reaching the Namibian – Angola border. To see and meet the Himba, one of the African tribes who still lived according to their ancestors' way of life.

After that, I rode to Abba GH as shown on google maps. However, the guesthouse was nowhere to be seen. It was super hot and I was heated up inside my full face helmet, riding jacket, pants and my boots. I asked a woman for direction and she told me that the actual location was 1 km further up. As I’m trying to turn my bike back to the main road, the engine died. I had difficulties to free the gear. It took me 2 minutes of struggling before I can start the engine. I almost fainted due to the heat. I managed to find Abba GH (NAD230) and was so relieved to escape from the scorching sun.

I waited until the heat lessened and took a stroll along the same road where I came earlier. I bought some groceries and fruits at a supermarket, and after that I just lazed at the bus stop, watching the Himbas and the Hereros, another tribe residing in Namibia. Unlike the Himbas who put on very minimal clothing, the Hereros were stylish. I loved to see the women in their bright coloured gowns with matching hats, walking the street with an umbrella in their hand.



As for the Himbas, there are about 50k of them left in Namibia. The women are majority topless and they put red ochre cream mixed with butter on their skin to protect them from the unforgiven heat, hence they looked red. They indeed have beautiful skin. They plaited their hair and covered it with clay?? (I'm not sure) but the hair felt very rough like the tail of the horse. Its interesting to see the different hair plaits style indicating different statuses in their community. Also the accessories they wear, very unique. Some of them walked barefooted and some wearing their traditional sandals made from animal skin.






Witnessing all this, I found the significance of a quote from a friend. "You can find Asia in Europe. You can find Europe in America. But you cant find Africa elsewhere...Africa can only be found in Africa."


8th Dec 2019: Opuwo – Ondangwa (C41 – C46, 272km)

While packing my things, the guest house owner came to me for a little chat. She took a photo with me and said that I was the first Malaysian who came by motorbike and stayed at her place.

I backtracked the same C41to the junction and was stopped by another police at a roadblock. The police was very friendly and he pointed me a detour as there was road work.



The view changes from pre-desert to Savannah. I rode carefully on the pretty good road which was shared with donkeys, goats and cows. The SES of the locals seemed to improve here by the better quality of the houses. During previous days, I saw the locals lived in a square-shaped roofless house made from mud. Here, the houses had roofs and were made from straws. The fence was made from branches of trees tied together.



It was a pleasant ride today as theres no disturbing wind. I arrived Ondangwa and searched for accommodation. Theres nothing here actually, but this is a bigger town to split the 800 km journey from Opuwo to Rundu. I settled at Fantasia GH (NAD200 after discount). I only rest and sleep today. I was very exhausted after 9 continuous days of riding since I left Cape Town, with not even one rest day.


9 – 10th Dec 2019: Ondangwa – Rundu (C45 – B10, 506 km)

I started at 7.15am. I had to pass a roadblock and the lady officer asked to see my passport (apart from my driving license). She was not friendly at all. There were lots of speed bumps in the town area. I almost dropped my bike due to braking instantly when I only managed to notice them when its really close. The bumps here were normally not indicated and only god knows when they were last painted. Its very dangerous and I kept reminding myself to take extra precaution.

The landscape for today’s ride changed from barren desert to more greens. I can see lots of animals drinking water in puddles on the grassy area. The houses were very unique. 


As for the locals, most of them walked by the roadside, some even barefooted. It amazed me when thinking about how hot the road was due to the high temperature. How did their feet stand the heat? I also noticed that the kids wore torn clothes, and the men lazed under the trees while their women did the hard work, such as carrying firewood on their head and water buckets in their hand. How unfair.




I can feel some wind today but luckily it was a tailwind. However, the long ride and the high temp made my destination very exhausting to reach. As I’m riding along B10, I was actually very near to Angola. A small river separated Namibia and Angola.



I pulled over at one of the many picnic areas along the way to eat my packed lunch of fried rice which I cooked this morning. While eating, I observed my surrounding as you never know if wildlife suddenly came out from the bushes.

I was very exhausted by the time I reached Rundu. I settled down at Ngandu Lodge. This is a very nice lodge near Cubango River which overlooks Angola. There are a few accommodation options to choose from according to one’s budget. There is also a campground for campers. A small pool to cool off from the heat is also available here. Its a nice quiet place to rest and recharge after a long journey. The staff is very friendly. This place is a home, far away from home.







I stayed for 2 nights here. On the first night, I opted for the cheapest option, an authentic hut, but I ended up couldnt sleep as it was boiling inside until 2 am. The next day, I spoke to the grumpy manager for an upgrade. He changed me to an A/C room for a small addition of money. How relieved I was.


11th Dec 2019: Rundu – Katima Mulilo (B8, 513 km)

From Rundu, I rode 513 km along the Caprivi Strip to Katima. It was a suspense ride as now I’m riding in Bwabwata NP in the Zambezi region. Unlike other national parks in Namibia, this one was not fenced, hence the wildlife can suddenly appear out from the bushes. There were lots of elephants signage, reminding road users to be alert at all time.




The first 80 km of my ride today was very very quiet. I didnt meet any human or vehicle at all. Not even a house or village can be seen. To be honest, I’m scared. The fear feeling was exactly like how I felt when riding in Alaska. The only difference was cold vs hot here, and bears vs elephants.


I had left the desert far behind me. It was green in this region. At times, the bushes were tall and at times, the bushes were very near to the road. Imagine if all of a sudden, a wild elephant came out from the bushes, what am I going to do? Hence, I ‘turned on’ my wide view mode while riding, scanning the surrounding far ahead of me. My heart was throbbing fast all along the way. 

It was only after riding 100 km that I saw a small settlement of a poor tribe. Their houses were so small. My bathroom back home is even bigger than their houses. I felt so sorry for their poverty.



About 5 km before I reached Kongola, I was shocked by the presence of an animal running from the forest to the road that I’m riding on. I slowed down my bike instantly to let the animal passed. It looked exactly like a cat, brown in colour, but 4 times bigger than an ordinary cat. The ‘cat’ stopped under a tree to watch me. We were both fascinated by the presence of each other. I almost stopped my bike to record the moment, but then I remembered...if theres a ‘baby’ here, the ‘mom’ is surely not that far away. Hence I forgo the idea of taking any pic and pressed the throttle to leave the place.

I reached Katima at 3pm. Theres not many budget accommodation option here. I had to settle down at Caprivi Hostel, which was actually a house converted to a hostel. The fee was NAD150 and I got the dorm all to myself as I was the only guest. The receptionist was very nice and friendly. However, something happened that night which scared the hell out of me.

The receptionist went home at 7 pm. I was left with the security who brought his friend to accompany him. The friend was over friendly towards me which made me felt uncomfortable. I didnt want to entertain him and I avoided any eye contact with him. While having dinner at the kitchen, I can feel him eyeing me up and down and I felt nervous to think that there were only 3 of us in this hostel, and no one else. I finished my food quickly and retired to my room. Fortunately theres a latch inside my room which can be locked from the inside. Luckily too, the room had an attached toilet, so I didnt have to go out and bumped into them when nature called.

I was just about to doze off when I heard someone knocking on my door. It was the security, asking me to bring my bike inside the house. My bike was parked just next to the wall where my bed was located, so if anyone tries to steal it, for sure I can hear. I told him that I’m not taking the bike in, just leave it there. Not long after that, the knocking started again. I was like, urghhhh pleaseeee!!! I was getting annoyed. Now what? The guys asked me to come out and watched TV with them. I told them that I’m not interested to watch TV. I wanted to rest and dont disturb me. After 20 minutes, they knocked on my door again, asking me to chit chat with them. By this time, I was getting very pissed off already. I shouted at them to leave me alone, I’m tired and I need to sleep!!!

The guys laughed. Obviously, they were drunk. I remembered seeing the friend brought with him a dozen cans of beer when he arrived. The locals here loved to drink. During my ride, whenever I passed towns, I noticed bars at every 100 m or 200 m apart. Thats to tell you how successful is alcohol business at this part of the world.

The disturbance went on until midnight and I ended sleeping with a knife in my hand, and a pepper spray under my pillow.    



AFRICAN RIDE: PART 3 - BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE & ZAMBIA

12th Dec 2019: Katima Mulilo – Ngoma Bridge – Kasane (B8 – A33, 130 km)

I left the hostel at 8am. The security and his friend were nowhere in sight. I rode to Ngoma Bridge border post. The distance was 70 km. Exiting Namibia was very fast & easy. 10 mins and I'm done. Entering Botswana didnt take long too, about 20mins as Ngoma Bridge is a very quiet border. 


However, I was pissed off with the female customs officer who charged me way too much to bring my bike into Botswana. From my reading, I knew that I need to pay 110 Pula (Botswanan currency) + 50 Pula (insurance) for a double entry, which equals to USD17. But to my surprise, I was charged way too much by the officer. Since I knew how much is the correct fee, I argued politely with her, but she told me that the cheaper fee is only for African bikes, and not other country's bike. She sternly showed me the “take it or leave it” attitude. I was very disappointed but I had no choice. This is Africa. Its not uncommon of such a thing to happen in this part of the world.

She insisted that I pay in Pula but I only had USD with me at that time. She then gave me a very poor conversion rate which ended up I had to pay USD71 in total. Can you believe that? From USD17 to USD71!!!

Haihhh....Here, you have to expect the unexpected. What other choice do I have? The other nearest border is almost 1400km away. So, be patience and move on. The most important thing was I made it into the 3rd country in my African ride.


I continued riding on a very deserted road for another 60 km to Kasane. I checked in at Thebe Safari Lodge, 125 Pula for tenting. FYI, the price in all the places where I stayed in Africa was counted per head, not per tent or per camp spot or per room.

After that, I rode to the town center to find a bank to change money. I had to wait almost one hour before I got my change. Then, I refueled my bike at a petrol station. I asked the pump attendant where can I find a cheaper price for a boat tour and he advised me to go to Chobe Safari Lodge. On my way to this place, I saw tour offices by the roadside and decided to check it out. I was very lucky to get a tour for 260 Pula, and it will start in 30 mins time. Just enough time for me to eat my packed lunch.

People come to Kasane to experience its safari and the infamous cruise along Chobe River. This town is situated in Chobe National Park and Kasane is the place where you can see water and land wildlife. The boat tour which I took was amazing. I was the only Asian on board. There were two other westerners, whilst the rest were local tourists. The boat was full by the time I was picked up, so the shaded seat was already taken. I had no choice but to sit at the frontest most seat without shade. It was a very hot day. Since I forgot to bring drinking water, I felt almost dehydrated. However, I managed to see some crocs, hippos, African water buffaloes, birds, baboons, deers and lots of antelopes during the 3 hours tour. The closest the boat get to a croc lazing on the grass was about 2 meters. It was really fun except that I felt a bit frustrated as I didnt see any elephant. I was told that you can see hundreds of elephants in this river, but I wonder where did the elephants go on that day?











The sun was setting by the time I reached my campsite. I hurriedly pitched my tent, prayed and had a really delicious Sharifah Foods Gam Biryani for dinner. Two thumbs up for this brand of instant food. No more Brahims for me from now on. This brand was sold at selected supermarkets or you may contact my friend, @sfwithsuzaila on Instagram.




I slept very well in the comfort of my Eiger air pillow and sleeping bag. I loved them so much.



ZIMBABWE AND ZAMBIA

13th Dec 2019: Kasane  – Victoria Falls (A33 – Kazungula Road, 85 km)

I started a bit late as its going to be a short ride today. I rode about 11 km to Kazungula which is a very small town bordering Botswana with Zimbabwe and Zambia. Most overlanders will opt for the ferry ride from this border into Zambia, but its costly and not worth it if you only spend little time in the country. So I chose to enter ZIM instead. A decision which many against and advised me not to, due to corrupt authorities. Well, if you dont try, how would you know hows your luck going to be, right?
The road to Kazungula border was under construction, so it was potholes and sandy for approx 5 km.
Exiting Botswana was easy, so as entering ZIM. The ZIM immi officer is a biker, so he was happy to see a female advrider. I had to entertain his lots of questions until I became the center of attraction that even the tourists at the border took pics with me. It was a proud moment to tell all of them that I am from Malaysia :)

To bring my bike into ZIM, I had to pay USD31 for road fund and insurance which was exactly as my internet research said. (Zambia entry fee will be pricier). Carnet was not needed. Both borders were done in about 30 minutes only. No hassle at all. It was a very straightforward procedure which proved that all the nightmares crossing this border might be a thing of the past.


Then it was a quiet ride to Victoria Falls town. Its just me, and the jungle dwellers. Again, I noticed some giraffes, but only after the ‘trees’ moving. HAHAHA. The giraffes disguised very well in the trees. They were very fast too and I didnt get the chance to take any pic.

Upon arriving Victoria Falls town, I headed to Shoestring Backpackers which I had booked earlier. Its wise to book your accommodation beforehand since Victoria Falls is a very popular tourist spot. The fee for a 4 bedded dorm is USD15 p/p. At 3 pm, I rode to Zim – Zambia border. I parked my bike at the parking lot and stamped out my passport. Then I walked 2 km into Zambia. I stopped by at the famous Victoria Falls bridge to witness the falls. Only a bit of it could be seen from here.


After stamping my passport at the Zambia side, I went to the ticket office and purchased the ticket to enter the world heritage site. I was surprised to learn that the ticket was only USD20, not USD30 as my internet research had said. But very soon afterward, I knew why was that so.


I walked into the park and saw only a tiny fall. Where was the supposedly half a million-liter gushing water per minute? Where was the mist and rainbow as it should be? Nothing. Then only I found out that I came on the wrong season. Its dry season now. No wonder the entrance fee was only USD20. Haihhh... 

A mind note, the best time to come here is April – June.


After spending about an hour at the park, I walked the same way back into ZIM, being careful of the many aggressive big baboons scattered around the area. It was a very hot day, hence I felt very exhausted by the time I reached my hostel.




AFRICAN RIDE: PART 4 - BACK INTO BOTSWANA & SOUTH AFRICA

14th – 15th Dec 2019: Victoria Falls – Kasane - Francistown (Kazungula Road – A33,  562 km)

Its a looonggg ride today, hence I started at 6.15am. I rode the same Kazungula Rd to the border. I saw some giraffes and deers, but as usual, they were very fast. Within seconds, they disappeared inside the forest. There was not many people at the border as its still early. Border crossing for both sides was easy and I’m done in 20 mins. Then I rode 5 km on offroad to Kasane. I refuel here first and after that, I shoot all the way to Nata. It was crazily hot and I was soooo tired.

After refueling at Nata, the road deteriorates with lots of potholes on and off for about 20 km. There were some road works here as well. I stopped for a quick lunch at a picnic area and continued riding. I got tired pretty easily due to the heat but I cant rest too often, else I couldnt make it to my destination.

For the first time since my African Ride, today I managed to see wild elephants. Not once but three times!!! The first time, I spotted the elephant from about 150 meters away. The elephant was enjoying the green leaves just by the roadside. I waited for 15 mins but theres no sign that the elephant will leave the place. The road was as usual, deserted. When I finally saw a car approaching, I hailed it and told the driver that I need some kind of security by riding side by side with the car. The driver agreed. This was my first experience riding on a road shared with an elephant.


The second time, I saw the elephant eating grass about 80 meters from the road. I stopped my bike, switched off the engine and observed the animal for about 10 minutes. Elephants are territorial animals. They wont attack you if you keep a safe distance from them.


I was caught off guard for the third time. I didnt notice the elephant at all as the side of the road was filled with tall bushes. It was only when I arrived, I saw it – only about 15 meters from me. It was BIG, STRONG AND NOT FRIENDLY AT ALL!!! This is my first time to encounter a wild elephant this close. I was hesitating, should I stop my bike or not? Its an opportunity cum danger. When I saw the elephant started to shake his head and ears, I knew very well that the elephant was ready to charge me. So I pressed the throttle and rode as fast as my bike could take me. Phewwww.....


After riding for about 10 hours, I reached Francistown and rode straight to my host’s house. As most houses at a medium level residence, this house was equipped with an electric fence to avoid theft, which was a serious problem in African neighbourhood. Veronique was expecting me. She had two lovely kids, a girl and a boy. I was so so tired and she let me rest in the guest room.

I fall asleep soon after. I woke up to find the house empty and it was already 7pm. Veronique, or her nickname, Nikki, came back shortly. She bought a Nandos chicken sandwich for me and assured me that all Nandos in the whole of Africa used halal chicken/meat. She knew because she was a chicken and meat distributor in Francistown. We chatted while eating. She’s a very friendly and nice host and baked delicious fruit cake for weddings.

The next day, Nikki brought me to the town center because my mobile phone was not functioning ever since I charged the phone at the hostel in Victoria Falls. I suspected that the voltage at the hostel was higher than what my phone could take, hence it was overheated and couldnt be switched on. I was lucky that Nikki knew a place and I got it repaired for 120 Pula only. After that, we went for grocery shopping as I had promised to cook chicken curry for her family. Nikki showed me halal chicken at the frozen section of the supermarket which clearly had a halal logo on the packaging. Back home, I cooked for them and I’m glad that the whole family loved my chicken curry :)




16th Dec 2019: Francistown – Gaborone (A1,  434 km)

I made a move at 7.15am after saying goodbye to Nikki and her son, Abbas. I rode south to the capital city of Botswana. There were lots of cow carcass which I could see. I supposed its due to the heat. At times, I need to ride on offroad when there was road work going on. There were lots of roadblocks as well. At one time, I was scolded by the police because I didnt stop at the exact STOP sign, but I followed the car in front of me at a slow pace. The police said that I must stop at the STOP sign and only move when he signaled me to move. Auwww....okay, sorry.

After being on the road for nearly 3 weeks now, I could say that riding in southern African countries is easy. The main road or highway is generally paved, but the one branched out from the main road is normally unpaved. It could be dirt, gravels or sands. Following the speed limit is a must. Not only because it was controlled by radar, but because animals also shared the road and there are lots of unmarked speed bumps.

As for driving attitude, RSA topped the list as the most behaved drivers. The least behaved is Botswana as they loved to overtake just a few inches apart from you.

Roadblocks are plenty. The culture here is always to ask “how are you?” So before the police ask, make sure you ask him / her first. Its a sign of respect and they will feel appreciated. The frequently asked questions from the police will be "where are u going today?", "where are u coming from today?" After that, they will ask you where you are from and surprised to know that you came as far as Msia, because to them, a 300 km journey on a motorbike is impossible. HAHAHA...

Good and bad police are everywhere on earth. So, its up to your creativity to tackle them. A good policeman is very proud of his uniform, so do not lie if he asked you as he will be very pissed off if he caught you lying. The problem for us is how to determine a good or a bad police?

I passed another Tropic of Capricorn sign on my way to the capital city. This is the third TOC sign for me, after Chile and Namibia.


It took me 6 hours to reach Gaborone as the speed limit reduced frequently which slowed me down by lots even though I got a tailwind all the way today. My accommodation today is at a lady biker’s place which I found in Air BnB. Her name is Tapiwa and she rode a Honda Shadow. We had a very nice chat about riding. I also loved the room which she discounted for me. However, it was blackout that night until past midnight. Urghhhh!!! When I finally get an A/C room on a very hot day, it blackout. It was so damn hot!!!




BACK INTO SOUTH AFRICA

17th Dec 2019: Gaborone – Tlokweng/Kopfentein - Pretoria (R49 - 4, 380 km)

I said goodbye to Tapi and rode to the border. It was the usual morning rushed hour so there were lots of traffic on the road. It took me 1 hour to reach the border even though the distance was only 33 km. Before crossing the border, I changed my remaining Pula to SA Rand at a money changer. I also refueled here as fuel in RSA is more expensive.


Then I walked to the border office. There were 3 buses full of athletes already ahead of me and the cue was very long. I waited patiently until one guy whom I assumed was one of the team’s officer told me to jump the cue and went straight to the front. He said that they were from Lesotho and just done with a sporting event and now returning back to their country. I did as told and managed to save some time. Then I went back to my bike and was greeted by Botswanan traffic policemen. They were thrilled to know that I’m riding solo. We chatted for a while and had some pics together.


Later, I rode to the South African side. Some of the Lesotho athletes were already there, waiting at the door which was blocked by a barrier. I waited together with them. While waiting, more athletes arrived. A minute later, the immi officer let us in. The athletes didnt give me any chance nor space to cue, even though they knew that I was there before the barrier was lifted. Since none of their officers were there, I had to double the line. Its unfair for me to go to the end of the looong line. When I shoved my passport to the officer in charge, and the girl next to me shoved hers as well, the officer asked who should be first? The girl accused that I didnt line up. I defended myself. In the end, the girl and her friends were scolded by the officer because they didnt show any respect to me who was much older than them. Moreover, even though they stamped their passport, they still need to wait until the whole team stamped theirs, then only the buses could make a move. So whats their point of not letting me have my passport stamped first?

Since I’m entering RSA again, I need to stamp my carnet at the customs. However, the customs officer at this border was new to this, and he didnt know what to do. I had to teach him and this took some time. In total, I wasted more than 1 hour for this border crossing.

I was already behind schedule. By right, I should arrive Pretoria around 12 pm as the High Comm of Msia is expecting me. There’re 355 km more to ride. I rode as fast as the speed limit allowed me. I had to pay toll 3 times, summing up to R110 in total. I was very tired as I didnt stop at all for rest. My fuel was getting low, but I didnt want to stop as refueling will take more time. I whispered a silent prayer hoping that the fuel could last until I reached Pretoria. By right, it could, but I need to slow down. The bike was tested way back in 2016 when it managed 450 km when I was crossing the Atacama Desert in Chile.

Finally, I made it to the Ambassador’s residence at 1.30pm with the fuel light blinking. H.E. Mohamad Nizan Mohamad, his wife Madam Ros and all the Msian embassy, defense and MATRADE staff were already there with their family. I was exhausted, but very thrilled. I didnt expect to receive such a warm welcome. Doa was recited by Mr. Dzulazhar, then the Ambassador gave his speech and followed by my own speech. After a photo session filled with laughter, I was taken to the dining room where I was feasted with delicious Msian food. All of them were so kind to me. The caring Ambassador insisted that I stayed at the residence which I accepted happily.




After resting for a while, I went downstairs as I had promised to show them my GDR video. All the people who were here this afternoon were still here, so it was like watching a movie at the cinema. After the show was done, all of them clapped and congratulated me. I was so touched with the hospitality.



18th Dec 2019: Pretoria – Johannesburg (N1, 60 km)

I felt so very lazy to get up from the very comfy bed, but I had a flight to catch today. Why is that so? Because today I am flying to Dubai. YEAYYY!!! Actually, while waiting for my bike to arrive Cape Town about 3 weeks ago, I received an email from the secretariat of the crown prince of Dubai, inviting me to be one of the speakers for Emirates Travelers Festival, 2018. I was very thrilled. This was an offer not to be missed. This was also the reason why I had to rush my ride and rode many kilometers every day with only 3 rest days to enable me to attend this event.

The same big family had arrived at the residence when I got down to the dining hall. Each of them brought something from home for breakfast. Again, we had a delicious Malaysian style breakfast with nasi lemak and delicacies. I really didnt know how to thank all these lovely people for their kindness.

Ambassador Nizan then flagged me off officially. Thank you very much Ambassador, Madam Ros, Mr. Dzulazhar and wifey Madam Ila, Mr. Azhar, Col. Ishak, Sargeant, Mr. Hairi, Madam Yus, Madam Mas and Madam Sal for all the effort and making my visit here so memorable.


I rode slowly to Johannesburg. While on the way, I saw two ostriches ran inside a fenced field about 10 meters away from me. It was fun watching them. I followed their pace, just to know whats their running speed. Guess what? They ran at 60 kmh. Too bad I didnt turn on my Gopro cam as I thought its just a short ride today, so I didnt manage to capture ‘our race.’

I arrived Yamaha Linex, as instructed by Roger Davidson, Givi importer in South Africa. I first met Roger during Givi 40th anniversary celebration in Iseo, Italy. He asked me to contact him after knowing that I’m going to ride in South Africa. Roger had arrived before me, and I was introduced to his partner, Danny. My bike was left here for oil change and service. Roger then drove me to the airport which was 40 km away. He promised to fetch me after I’m back from Dubai. That was very kind of him.




I said thank you to Roger and checked in for my flight with Emirates. The 8 hours flight was not so pleasant as I was seated with noisy people. I didnt manage to get any sleep at all.




AFRICAN RIDE: PART 5 - EMIRATES TRAVELERS FESTIVAL 2018


19th – 22nd Dec 2019: Emirates Travelers Festival, Dubai

This festival is my 5th international event for 2018 after Overland Expo in the USA (May), Horizons Unlimited in Indonesia (Sept), Givi 40th anniversary celebration and EICMA Autoshow in Italy (Nov) and ZafigoX in Malaysia (Nov). I met many world travelers from all around the globe, including Juvena, the Wandering Wasp whom I host way back in 2015 when she first started her Singapore – Europe ride. The uniqueness of this event was the mode of transportation used by the travelers. Juvena and I represented adventure riders. Other speakers traveled the world by bicycle, 4WDs, caravans, walking, hitchhiking, backpacking but the most unique to me were Alvarro from Spain who traveled on his jet ski, Ahmad Al Qashemi from Yemen who went around the world by riding his camel and Alessandro from Italy who is a blind backpacker.


During this event, we were taken for culinary and cultural experience around Dubai. The local cuisine was very very tasty. I just cant get enough of the lamb biryani. 


I also managed to meet my ex-student, Syafinaz who took me and Juve for a half day Dubai tour near Dubai’s famous landmark, Burj Khalifa. There were lots of tourists here. She also treated us lunch at a nice restaurant. Thank you Enaz for the treat.






At the festival venue, each speaker had their own corner where the visitors can come and talked to them about their journey. I was met with not only local and international visitors but some Malaysians who resided in Dubai as well. 



I also need to entertain lots of local and international interviews. One of them was Las Vegas International Media. I was sooo tired but happy to introduce my country and to speak about Givi products as well.






I was given an hour for my presentation which went very well. There were lots of emotion and ended with me in tears of happiness. Why? Let it be a secret for the time being. If the organizer honour their promises, its going to be my biggest wish fulfilled. After that, I was surrounded by some of the audience, especially the local women, telling how much they were inspired by my story.


On my last day in Dubai, I managed to meet my brother Wissam Al Jayousi. He was a RTW advrider and I met him twice when he was in Msia. Wissam and his beautiful wife, Gorana, treated me and Juve at a fancy Lebanese restaurant and later brought us back to his big beautiful home. Thank you both of you for the hospitality.





I also wished to thank the Emirates Travelers Festival committee for having me here, especially Mr. Awad, Madam Najwa and Mr. Hasan.




AFRICAN RIDE: PART 6 - SOUTH AFRICA - LESOTHO - SOUTH AFRICA

23rd Dec 2019: Johannesburg (Rest Day)

My flight from Dubai arrived Johannesburg as scheduled. Roger was already at the airport waiting for me. He brought me back to his nice thatched roof home. I was introduced to her sweet wife, Jen. I didnt plan to stay the night here actually, but since I was very tired and Roger insisted that I should stay for at least one or two nights, I decided to accept his invitation. I slept the whole morning until afternoon. I woke up to find the house empty as Roger and Jen went for their Christmas shopping. They came back soon after. We talked about my journey and many other things. My bike which was already serviced and washed (thank you!!!) was taken back home by Roger. That night, Jen made a very delicious halal chicken and pumpkin roast to be eaten with rice. She also showed me her crafts which she made herself. She’s so talented.



24th – 25th Dec 2019: Johannesburg – Potchefstroom (150 km)

Not a single soul failed to question me why am I going to Potch? Its not listed in the travel attraction list at all. Well, the reason is because Grant Johnson, the Horizons Unlimited pioneer whom I met in Indonesia told me that one of HU member owned a game park here where you can enjoy a game drive and see lots of wildlife, and from Grant’s recommendation, I could pitch my tent at the premise for free. Since I had not seen any zebra as yet, this place is my last chance before I made my way back to Cape Town.
I said goodbye and many thanks to my lovely hosts, Roger and Jen with a promise to visit (and cook biryani rice for them) the next time I come. The ride from Joburg was accompanied by some head and side wind which was disturbing. Two km before reaching the game park was gravel corrugated road and slightly climbing. While riding the offroad, I saw ostriches and a group of oryx which made me screamed with joy.
I didnt expect much when I arrived at Elgro River Lodge. In my mind, its going to be free camping and thats it. However to my surprise, Kobus, the owner (thru his staff, as he was away for Christmas) gave me a very nice riverfront glass wall chalet. FOC. I repeat, FOC. A dorm bed in RSA’s hostel will cost you USD20, so how much do you think a nice riverfront glass wall chalet will cost you? I really cant believe my luck.




After resting and cooking, I checked out the lodge. It had a small outdoor swimming pool and a bar. The surrounding was well kept and beautiful. I enjoyed the sunset by the beautiful Vaal River when my eyes caught someone fishing not very far away from me.


I decided to greet him. Pete Goosen is a very nice and friendly guy. He’s Kobus’ friend and always came here for fishing. He said that he once caught a 35kg catfish at this river. His farm was about 4 km from Elgro Lodge. When I told him that I havent managed to see zebra as yet, he offered me a game drive at his farm tomorrow. An offer which I couldnt say no. We talked while viewing the beautiful sunset by the river for about an hour before I had to excuse myself due to mossies.


The next day, Pete came to fetch me at 8 am. We drove to his farm. He showed me his amazing trophy room. Then he drove me around his huge farm. We saw lots of animals - impalas, different types of buffalos, different type of antelopes, giraffes and of course zebras. The zebras were so damn cute. I was very excited and screamed like a little kid. For the first time, I managed to get as near as 50 meters to giraffes. They were beautiful creatures.







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Can you count the giraffes?



Pete told me that there are leopards on his farm and he was once attacked. Wow, thats scary. Then, Pete drove me to a bridge which was his favourite bird watching spot. We managed to see some birds here.


After that, we visited Pete’s friend who had 4 beautiful dogs. Thanks Pete for making my day.




LESOTHO

26th Dec 2019: Potchefstroom – Bethlehem – Maseru (R501 – R721 – R26 – 8 – A2, 454 km)

I made an early start this morning. The 20 km offroad on R501 was a combination of dirt and gravels. Certain part was very corrugated. I almost dropped my bike once when having to ascend on this kind of road. Luckily I managed to control my bike. I saw some wildlife and again, I saw zebras which brightened up my day.







The first half of my ride today was very nice as I got a tailwind. The road was deserted and the view after Bethlehem was awesome with lots of mountains and green views. However, I got a side wind after that and it was pretty stressful.
I arrived at Maseru Bridge border and exited South Africa without any problem. 


Then I entered the 6th country in my African Ride, Lesotho. It was a very easy border. I only need to stamp my passport and pay the road fund, R40 (approx RM10) and thats it. No need to do customs declaration for my bike here.


I met a local biker at the border (but he was driving at that time). We chatted for a while and he bought me water. Then I rode to Maseru, the capital city of Lesotho. It was only a small town actually. But the funny thing was, I saw Lim Kok Wing’s advertisement board here.

I missed the turn to Maseru Backpackers Hostel which was located just next to the beautiful Maseru Lake and had to turn back. The entrance to the hostel was pretty steep gravel track but I made it alright. I stayed one night here (R180). The afternoon was spent relaxing by the lake and chatting with an advrider from Germany.




BACK TO SOUTH AFRICA FOR THE 3RD TIME

27th Dec 2019: Maseru – Bloemfontein – Beaufort West (A2 – N8 – N1, 700 km)

Summer is the windiest month in the African region, especially in South Africa. Riding a bike as mine, its not light enough for easy handling when riding on offroad, and its not heavy enough to fight with the wind. Due to this, I faced a challenging ride as I made my way south today.

I made an early start at 5.20am as today’s distance was huge and since the wind will normally be more fierce especially in the afternoon. Border crossing was very fast as there was no other people except the officers. I got a tailwind for the first 400 km until Colesberg.

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A funny landmark which captured my eyes

However for the remaining 300 km, I had to struggle with crazy head and side wind. At times, I felt as if the wheels of my bike didnt touch the ground anymore. Its not the scariest wind that I had encountered, but its disturbing and I hated it. I lost count how many times I screamed when I felt that my bike was already out of control. 

Up ahead, I saw a cloud of dust being blown from the left to the right side of the road. I knew that a storm was passing by. So I stopped at a petrol station near Hanover for shelter and waited for the storm to pass.


After 1 hour, the wind lessened a little bit and I continued. The wind picked up strength once again while I’m riding, and God knew how I struggled to keep my bike upright. I can only ride with the 3rd gear, and could only manage the speed of 60 – 70 kmh. It was a very exhausting ride that I no longer could enjoy the orange and yellow mountains of the Northern Cape, even though the view was stunning.



Finally, I made it to Beaufort West after riding more than 11 hours, which 6 hours of it were spent fighting with the wind. Then I rode to an accommodation which I had booked earlier. It was quite difficult to find the house and I had to ask passers-by. When I found the house, no one responded to the doorbell. The wind was blowing fine sands into my eyes and it was very annoying. Especially because I’m dead tired and desperately need to rest. I had to ask the neighbour for help. Luckily the neighbour knew the owner and rang her. The owner came 10 minutes later. I felt so relieved when I finally settled down in my comfy room with A/C.


28th Dec 2019: Beaufort West – Gordons Bay (N1 – R43 – R45 – R321, 465 km)

Again, I made an early start to reduce the wind impact on my ride today. The wind was still blowing fine sands which were annoying. Todays ride was quite okay and the view was very beautiful. As a matter of fact, among all the countries I rode in the South African region, to me RSA is the most beautiful, followed by Namibia.

Here are some pics on the scenic N1 Highway, Hex River Pass & Theewaters Nature Reserve on R321. I really love the vineyards, mountains and the blue waters. I stopped too many time for pics. I just couldnt help it. Fortunately, the wind was not as disturbing as yesterday.





I rode to Andy’s house (my agent) in Gordon Bay. Andy was out riding, but his wife, Anne was at home. The wind was blowing crazy again, but Anne said that this is normal at her place.

Anne took me out for sightseeing in her car and we enjoyed a beautiful sunset at False Bay. 


That night, Anne received a message from Andy, saying that he fell off his bike when trying to avoid colliding with a goat on the offroad. His bike was badly damaged. I felt so sorry upon hearing this.


29th Dec 2019: Gordons Bay – Cape Town (N2 – M7, 50 km)

At 9 am, I said goodbye to Anne and returned to Sam’s house in Cape Town. It was good to be back here again after riding approximately 8000 km crossing 6 countries – RSA, Namibia, Botswana, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Lesotho. Sam repeatedly told me how relieved he was that I had returned, safe and sound.

With that, the first phase of my African Ride was completed.

Before I fly back to Msia on 31st Dec, Sam and his family took me to a weekend flea market at Milnerton.  I managed to buy some souvenirs to take back home. Thank you very much Sam and family for the kind hospitality.







SUMMARY

Below are some basic info about riding in the 6 countries:

REP OF SOUTH AFRICA:
- Carnet required
- No entry fee for self and bike
- Vehicle insurance not compulsory
- Bikes also hv to pay tolls on certain highways
- Currency is Rand which is widely accepted in Namibia & Lesotho.

REP OF NAMIBIA:
- Carnet not required
- No entry fee for self
- Road fund for bike NAD188
- No need to do customs declaration for bike
- Currency is Namibian Dollar

BOTSWANA:
- Carnet not required
- No entry fee for self
- Road fund for bike P110 (per entry), but I had an unpleasant experience and had to pay more.
- Bike insurance P50
- Currency is Botswana Pula

ZIMBABWE:
- Entry fee for bike & insurance USD31
- USD is widely accepted

ZAMBIA:
- Carnet required
Payments for Zambia: Carbon Tax - 70 Kwacha, Road Fund - US$ 20, Toll - 20 Kwacha, Insurance - 103 Kwacha (minimum)
- Currency is Kwacha

LESOTHO:
- Carnet not required
- No entry fee for self
- Road fund for bike R40
- No need to do customs declaration for bike
- RSA Rand is widely accepted

RSA sells the priciest fuel, approx R15 – R17 per liter. The cheapest fuel was sold in Lesotho, R12. you can find lots of petrol stations in RSA, but a lot lesser in other countries. So, always check if theres any petrol station in your route, or bring spare fuel.

Accommodation is pricey. As a matter of fact, everything is pricey at this part of the world, especially RSA. The more popular the attraction is, the pricier it gets.  Camping @ lodge fee is about USD10 - USD15 per person. So if there are two of you, you must pay double even though you shared the same tent. Dorm rate starts from USD15 per person. Only for a pre-booked private room on Air BnB or booking.com, the price starts from USD25 per room (not per person).

Border crossing in Africa depends on your luck. If you meet a good officer, good for you, but if not, you need to have patience and some humour to tackle them. Most of them are poorly paid so they see tourists as a source to earn extra income. Same goes to the police.

OTHER TIPS:
- There are lots of speed camera in RSA, so watch your speed.
- Policemen in Botswana are very strict.
- Always stop at the STOP sign even though you didnt see anyone there.
- Potholes in certain road in Botswana. Lots of animal crossing as well, so watch out!!!
- Drunk driving is common.
- Lots of checkpoints especially when you are entering town @ province.
- Lots of unmarked speed bumps.

OVERALL
Its a good experience riding in Africa even though there are slight hiccups. So, am I done riding here? NO. My bike stays in Cape Town. I will return later to continue exploring this unique continent.

My utmost thanks to all my sponsors, Sam & family and Roger Davidson and DMD for all the help, Uwe for the route advice, Andy for my bike's shipping & clearance, Anwar Omar and Gavin in Cape Town and Msian Embassies in Pretoria and Namibia for the support. Till we meet again :)




14 Amanat Tun Mahathir

PART 6: SOUTH AMERICA (BOLIVIA, CHILE)

BOLIVIA (18 JAN – 23 JAN 2016)



After saying goodbye to the nice lady at the hostal in Puno who gave me a very nice room with discounted price and even invited me for breakfast, I started riding south to the border. Hardly 15mins, it started to rain again. It was cold and Lake Titicaca was not as blue. Arriving Desaguadero, there was a looong line of people at the Immigration. The line was about 40m outside the office. It took me 1 hour to line up and only 1min to get the exit stamp. Cancelling my permisso took just 5 mins. Then I crossed the bridge and entered Bolivia. To my surprise, the line at the Immigration here was longer, about 70m!!! It took me 2 hours to line up and just 1 min to get the entry stamp. Its not difficult to get my permisso at the aduana to bring GD into Bolivia. Perhaps I'm already used to how the system worked here in the Latin American countries. Overall, it took me 3.40 hours to cross both borders, the longest time for all 13 countries so far.

Once done, I had to ride on gravels for 1km with 3 dogs chasing me before I hit the paved road. The weather did improved, so I managed to enjoy beautiful blue Lake Titicaca. The road to La Paz was so-so, with some badly sunken road and pot holes in places. There were lots of stray dogs and I wonder why, Bolivian dogs seemed not to like me very much. They always chased me!!!
Arriving here, the traffic were quite crazy but not as bad as in Lima. Its not very easy to find accommodation with secure parking here, unless at the more expensive hotels. In the first place, if you are searching for hostal or hospedaje (spanish word for 'lodge'), u will end up frustrated bcos in Bolivia, the term used was 'alojamiento'. I did found a good place anyway, Hostal Internacional, which charged unbelievable B50 (RM25) for a really comfy room. 

The road in El Alto, La Paz was sooo bad with pot holes, puddles, construction and piles of construction sands or gravels in the middle of the road, making it difficult for me to exit to the highway. Pedestrians here were crazy too. They crossed the road as they liked without looking left and right. I saw a dead man lying on the road with pools of blood. Euwwww...I tried not to look more than I should. I kept reminding myself to go slow and be extra careful. I put up at Oruro for 1 night and continued towards Uyuni. The weather was fine. There were good and bad roads. The houses here were made from mud bricks, meaning the SES was lower. The view was sooo different here. As a matter of fact, the landscape between all SA countries - Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia differed even though they were neighbours. I saw lots of llamas and amazing sand twisters spiralling into the sky...which also meant that I had to fight strong side wind for 2 hours today. After riding for 600kms from El Alto, La Paz, I reached Uyuni, the heart of salar – the famous salt flats.

I took a one day tour to the Salar. It was amazing. I had no word to describe the beauty, so I will let the pics do the talking.



CHILE (23 JAN – 5 FEB 2016)


Previously, I was doubting whether or not I can afford to do the famous route 701 from Uyuni to the Bolivian – Chilean border as it was a looonggg offroad but offered spectacular views along the way. However, after thinking deeply, I decided that I will give it a try. I left Uyuni at 7.40am. The view was indeed amazing and the offroad was not as crazy as I thought it would be. Well, the harder part was yet to come. It took me 4 hours to reach Avaroa, the border town.The border was in the middle of nowhere. It was 12pm then and the officers were gone. I had to wait to get my exit stamp and cancelled my permisso. Then, I rode approx 3kms in no mans land into Ollague, Chile. I stamped my passport and get my permisso. No fees or mandatory insurance required to bring in my bike into this country. However, there was an inspection done on GD as animals @ plant products were not permitted to be taken in. But the nice officer just took 2 secs check on my top box. Overall, it took me about 2 hours to clear both borders.
I then continued my ride to Calama via route 21, passing amazing salt lake and beautiful volcanic mountains. It was unbelievable that all SA countries that I had been to were sooo contrast in views and landscapes. All were unique and beautiful. However, the road was not. It was worse than route 701 in Bolivia. There were many stretches of soft sands and loose gravels which I need to ascend and descend. The wind was stronger here too. I almost fell not less than 10 times, but luckily I managed to handle GD even though I was already off balance. I'm sure my mom back home can hear me screaming for her. It was a big relief when I finally met paved road again. Ohhh...I loved paved road, and who ever made them. In total, I rode 450kms today on ripio - dirt, gravels and soft sands. Only less than a quarter of the distance I rode today were paved. The most km of offroad in a day that I had ever done!!!


My next destination in Chile was San Pedro de Atacama, which was only 110km via route 23 from Calama. The road was good, but it was a bit windy bcos I was crossing a vast desert. Tourist from all over the world came to San Pedro de Atacama not for the sake of the town. Theres nothing in the rustic town except dust. However the surroundings were soooo spectacular. There were lots to see, the desert, geysers, lagunas, salt flats etc. Due to my tight budget, I could only managed to visit Valle de la Luna, or Moon Valley. Its not far from the town. The view was incredible. All this while, when talking about desert, what we had in mind will be sands, dunes and perhaps one or two barren mountain. However here, you can see a mountain range, Cordilerra de la Sal, which was made from salt, and the amazing rock formation was formed by wind erosion. Another god's creation which left me speechless... 
Northern Chile was dominated by the Atacama Desert, so it was very dry and windy. My skin and lips were peeling by now due to the dryness. Even my lip balm didnt help. Anyway, after 2 days, I left San Pedro de Atacama, heading back to Calama and then south via route 25. I started early as to avoid strong wind in the desert which normally will blow hard at 12pm onwards. I made a good time to Antofagasta within 4 hours (had to brave the morning chill though). Upon reaching Antofagasta, I started to look for a cheap place to stay. From my research, I knew theres nothing cheap in this city, but I just tried. Normally there're cheaper places which were not listed in the internet. Unfortunately, after wasting 2 hours going around the city, and the cheapest room I could find was USD35, which was waayy too much for my wallet, I decided to continue riding to the next town, in hope that my luck will change. However, it was 2pm by then and the wind was blowing like SUPER CRAZY!!! I never face such strong wind before, not even in Peru. From a distance, I saw HUGEEE cloud of sands being blown away. It was really scary and my poor GD was zig-zagging helplessly. Theres one time that the wind gust shoved me to the opposite direction in a mere 2 seconds and theres a lorry approaching from the opposite direction!!! Luckily I managed to get back on my lane. I was sooo stressed out and its very unsafe to continue riding in this condition. However, where must I go? Where must I go? WHERE??? The next town was few hundred kms away and all around me was nothingness but desert and sands. I was praying real hard in my heart while riding slowly and gripping the handle firmly. Thank god I saw a Shell station next to the highway. I pulled over and begged the owner to let me camp behind the station. He was reluctant in the beginning, but agreed when he saw tears started to pool in my eyes...

The next day was not easy for me either. Ever since I entered Chile 6 days ago, almost everyday I will get surprises. The offroad, the crazy wind, the high price on everything...and now, another surprise. A country which was said amongst the most developed and expensive in SA, but the gas stations were very far apart. Its hundreds of kms before you found one!!! I made a big mistake which I learnt well and will never repeat. I didn't refuel at the gas station which I camped last night because they no longer have the cheaper gas. Since I still had half tank of gas, I asked the attendant, wheres the next station? He was talking so fast and I thought he said "dos""tres". So using fingers, I pointed two and three and he nodded. I thought its 23kms away, so I proceeded. After 50kms, theres no gas station in sight. I checked my GPS, it said theres one 150kms away. I started to get worried as GD didn't have much gas left. I asked the locals but everyone was giving me different answers. And what scared me most was, yesterday, the gas station listed in my GPS was of non existence. How if the one which my GPS said was 150km away didn't exist too? Only god knows how I felt. I had to ride very slowly, about 50 - 60kmh only. And all the while praying hard that GD could make it.

Finally, after almost 3 hours of really slow ride of 160kms, there it is...the gas station. And GD almost reached blinking level, but not yet blinking. Approx 450km was done since its last refuel. A new record set. Phewwwww...

Anyway, even though the experience of almost running out of gas was scary, I achieved a remarkable victory today when I reached Mano Del Desierto, or 'Hand of the Desert'. This sculpture was in my wish list ever since I got into adv riding, and it was only today that I rolled my wheels here. I also managed to locate the landmark for Tropic of Capricorn.


The next few days, I continued riding further south via route 5, passing towns such as Chanaral, La Serena and Valparaiso. Chile's landscape was very unique. There were times that I'm surrounded with reddish mountain, at other times, brownish or yellowish. I felt like in a different planet. The wind was still strong at certain stretches, but the beautiful blue Pacific Ocean view down the cliff compensate the unpleasantness of having to fight the wind. As I rode further south in Chile, I could see more colours and more cactus & bushes in the pampas, compared to sands, dunes and barren mountains in northern Chile. 

The houses in the bigger towns in Chile were similar to in Msia. Road was good, but motorbikes had to pay tolls :( Along my way to Valparaiso, I could see locals waving and flagging white flags to attract people to buy cheese which they sold by the road side. View got greener later on. I stayed 2 nights in Valparaiso and explored the historical city which was also a sister city to Malacca.

My last destination in Chile was Santiago. I rode straight to Malaysian Embassy and was given a very warm welcome by Dato Dr Rameez, the ambassador, and all the staff. Lots of delicious food being served such as nasi lemak with chicken rendang, rojak and Malay delicacies. Dato Rameez even invited me to stay at Malaysia House. I felt so honoured and happy. I spent 3 nights and managed to send my bike for maintenance service at a Yamaha HQ here and attended a tea meet with the Perwakilan Ladies. I wished to thank Dato Rameez, lovely Datin Noor Zulaikha , Malaysian Embassy in Santiago and Yamamotor Santiago for the hospitality.



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